Style ARC Stella coat

adult's clothing, sewing

Tuesday, 16 September, 2014 by thornberry

Goodness, another brown garment!  Well, my theory was “sew all the brown things….”

This is the Style Arc Stella coat. Other than not being able to resist a garment named after my youngest daughter, I thought that it had the potential to work nicely in a knit (despite being drafted for wovens). Here is the Style Arc website line drawing and description.

This is a gorgeous wrap coat that is so comfortable to wear. Make it in wool and line it for a cosy winter look or as light weight linen and no lining for Spring/Summer.  FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION: Woven winter weight wool, velvet, or use linen, linen mix.

Firstly, I used a jacquard double knit, of a similar weight to a medium ponte.  I did fully line the coat in a viscose/lycra jersey.   Check this out!

I used size 12 throughout. I know, I know, I should have made some petite alterations through the body – but I didn’t. And this is why I will usually wear this jacket left open, rather than belted closed. Here are some photos that give you a better idea as to why. First, belted (the short thick waist strikes again):

versus unbelted:

Okay, I always knew that I was never likely to tie that belt, and now I am convinced. I probably should have left off the belt loops completely. However, did you look at that fit across the back shoulders? And how nicely the collar sits up against my neck despite the scarf grappling with it?

The fabric is from Darn Cheap Fabrics, but I think that it was bought last year. This coat sat in the cut-out-waiting-to-be-assembled tub for a little while. Sorry coat! I did have some challenges trying to figure out how to bag out the lining, especially at the hem where it meets the facing. Luckily for me (and with a little help from instagram) there were a few very helpful tutorials around – thanks to everyone who helped out in that regard! In the end user error was the main culprit causing my difficulties, and once I had done some judicious unpicking and slowed myself down and worked through the tutorials set by step the corners worked out very nicely.

I’m very glad that I lined this – it just finishes things so much more nicely than if I hadn’t, especially for a winter/transseasonal coat! There is a pleat in the centre back to allow for movement.

The coat is top-stitched along the front and collar edges, around the edges of the belt, and along the back yoke seam. The only interfaced section is the collar.

When I was at Melbourne Frocktails on the weekend (blog post to come on my sequinned dress) I was asked how many hours I spend per day/per week sewing. I have to admit that this coat took quite a while. I estimate a few hours on the cutting alone – maybe three or four – and possibly around ten on construction. There are a lot of seams, a full lining, and a for me a few challenges in getting the bagged lining right. And doing the pockets – did I mention that there are pockets in those side seams?

Anyway, the end verdict is that I am thrilled with what is essentially a “very wearable muslin” (considering that I made a straight size 12 without alteration and cut out a while ago when slimmer, assuming that the miracles of stretch fabric would assist where needed). This is a fairly close fitting garment, but eminently comfortable in the fabric that I chose.  My biggest dilemma now is what to do with the belt/loops – currently I have tied the belt in the centre back fairly loosely and am wearing it open. I can tell that this will get plenty of use.

Take a look at Anne’s beautiful wool version – exquisitely tailored and fitted.  And see, not everything that I make is super fast or super simple – I do have mad skillz after all!