adult's clothing · sewing

Simone the Fifth

I find it interesting that although I continue to buy new patterns, I continue to sew ones that I have sewn before.  I first sewed the Style Arc Simone cardigan in 2014, and since then have sewn another four.  That very first one finally ran out of ooomph after many, many wears, and I realised that I really did need another one in the same colour to replace it.  So here we have Simone the Fifth!

Style Arc Simone cardigan in ponte from Eliza Fabrics

Over the years I have discovered that a greenish yellow works really well in my wardrobe. This fabric is a quality ponte that I found at Eliza Fabrics. It works really well for this cardigan.

Style Arc Simone cardigan in ponte from Eliza Fabrics

The pockets are integrated into a fold in the front piece – rather ingenious! It also gives terrific drape in the recommended fabrics and interesting structured folds in fabrics like this soft ponte.

Style Arc Simone cardigan in ponte from Eliza Fabrics

This is size 12, no alterations. Construction is primarily on the overlocker, with the machine used to secure hems with a twin needle and to topstitch down seam allowances. From the pattern website: This clever cardigan pattern has been designed so as the drape creates the pocket. An easy every day must have cardi. Make it with or without buttons. FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION Knit jersey, slinky or any drapey knit.

simone-cardigan

I don’t think that I’m finished with this pattern yet.  Next time I’ll follow the pattern recommendations and do it in something a little lighter weight, just to change things up a bit.  It’s easy to sew, and doesn’t take all that much time, and works well with most of my wardrobe.

Style Arc Simone cardigan in ponte from Eliza Fabrics

adult's clothing · sewing

Yet another Aeolian and Flat Bottom Flo

Sewing a Pattern Fantastique Aeolian tee for Clare made me think that I could do with another one. Tada!

Pattern Fantastique Aeolian Tee

Don’t you just love that fabric! It came from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I’m not sure what the composition is, but it’s lovely and soft, yet adequately substantial.

Pattern Fantastique Aeolian Tee

I sewed size Medium, as I usually do when I make an Aeolian for myself. Most construction is on the overlocker, with hems and neckband secured and highlighted with twin needle stitching. Really, you’ve all heard my love of this pattern many, many times.

Pattern Fantastique Aeolian Tee

And behold – what are those pants I am wearing with my Aeolian tee? They are the Style Arc Flat Bottom Flo pants – and I’ve sewn them twice before.

Style Arc Flat Bottom Flo pants in very stretchy woven

It’s possibly worth popping over to see how my 2014 pair and 2017 pair fitted me – because this pair seem much looser despite me using exactly the same size 12 pattern pieces and me being quite a bit bigger this time than when I last sewed these pants! The fabric is an incredibly stretchy woven twill that I also found at Darn Cheap Fabrics. The spandex content must be extremely high.

Style Arc Flat Bottom Flo pants in very stretchy woven

From the pattern website: Every butt has a different shape! This stretch pull on pant is for those with a flatter bottom. The back side seam comes to the front giving this slightly narrow legged pant a slimming look and the back yoke adds to this flattering shape. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Stretch bengaline, stretch woven.

flo-pant

I added the back pockets to make these slightly more jeans like – and to have somewhere to put my phone.  They were super fast to sew, with construction all on the overlocker, and the machine just used for topstitching the back yoke, attaching the pockets, and securing the hems.

Pattern Fantastique Aeolian Tee

These photos were taken at the end of a day of wear, so are both looking a little creased and crumpled, but I can tell that they’ll both be welcome additions to my wardrobe.

adult's clothing · sewing

Closet Case Patterns Cielo dress

A few blog posts ago I showed you the Cielo top that I’d sewn and subsequently given to my mum.  This time I’ll show you the Cielo dress that I sewed two sizes smaller than the top.

Closet Case Patterns Cielo dress in pique

This time around I sewed size 12 (my measurements put me in size 16) and I adore the resulting garment! This is another one of my hit sews for the year. This is essentially view C of the pattern, but without the pockets. I didn’t have enough fabric to do the view with the pockets, but don’t you worry, next time I sew this dress I’ll do it with both the pockets and the lantern sleeves.

Closet Case Patterns Cielo dress in pique

A big part of my love of this dress is that I was working with the perfect fabric for it. It’s a soft cotton pique that moved from Anna‘s stash to mine, and I’m so glad that it did! Why is there not more pique in the world?  The added texture is so delightful!  And I could not get over how perfectly the colours in the print worked with my Bokyna sandals.  I wore this outfit on an incredibly hot day last week, and I stayed cool and comfortable throughout.

Closet Case Patterns Cielo dress in pique

I did the construction and topstitching in matching aqua thread on my machine, and used my overlocker to finish seam allowances (but not to construct). I decided to leave the cuffs turned up but not topstitched down. I don’t think that they need it! I used plenty of pins to secure the neckline facing before topstitching it from the right side, using a guide attached to my sewing machine to ensure that the stitching was done at the same distance from the opening for the entire way around.

Closet Case Patterns Cielo dress in pique

I really like those shoulder yoke pieces. Depending on your fabric choice you could play with the direction of print/pattern/weave or use a contrast, or pipe the seam. I went with simply cutting the pieces on a different angle, and topstitching beside the seam.

Closet Case Patterns Cielo dress in pique

You possibly haven’t been able to spot the bust darts in the print. I sewed the C cup option. The darts come from the armhole seam, and help to ensure that the dress is loose through the body but not baggy overall.

Closet Case Patterns Cielo dress in pique

From the pattern website: Part of our Rome Collection, the Cielo Dress & Top is an easy, breezy take on a boxy tee and shift dress. Loaded with interesting details and interchangeable features, it will fast become a wardrobe building favourite. Choose between a semi-cropped top with a cuffed short sleeve (View A) or dramatic gathered long sleeve (View B). Or, make an easy fitting dress with sleek inseam pockets (View C), or without pockets (View D). All views have a slightly dropped shoulder, angled shoulder yoke and roomy fit, with a choice between an elegant bias binding or faced neckline finish.

Skirt_Technical Flat

I think that this dress fills the spot in my wardrobe that used to be taken by the Inari dress, and I will definitly sew the Cielo again.

Closet Case Patterns Cielo dress in pique

adult's clothing · sewing

In The Folds Flynn jacket

I have sewn quite a few garments this year that have proved to be a resounding success.  The Flynn jacket, by In The Folds, is one of them.  It’s only the second garment I have sewn from this pattern company, but it definitely won’t be the last.   You can find my blog post on the Rushcutter dress here.

In The Folds Flynn Jacket in denim from Clear It

I sewed my jacket from denim that I found at Clear It. I haven’t come across anything similar before – it’s brown on one side and black with a pattern of brown cracks on the other. Does anyone know how they do this?

In The Folds Flynn Jacket in denim from Clear It

And there’s a peek of the inside seam binding. I’ll talk more about that later. From the pattern website: The Flynn jacket is a loose-fitting jacket designed for woven fabrics. With two different styles, it is the perfect layering piece for autumn and winter. Flynn features a wrap around collar, a high-low hem and in-seam pockets. All seams are finished with bias binding, for a beautiful and high-end finish. The Flynn jacket can be worn open, or closed discreetly with a hook and eye. View A has a dropped shoulder and sleeve with a hem facing. It also features an inverted box-pleat in the back. The sleeves on View A are designed to be worn either straight or folded back, for a more casual look. View B is sleeveless and features armhole facings and a flat back piece (no pleat). It has been designed to be worn over long sleeve tops and dresses. It works equally well worn over sleeveless tops and t-shirts. View B has a closer fit to View A, due to its sleeveless design and flat back piece. SUGGESTED FABRICS: The Flynn jacket is compatible with bottom-weight fabrics such as: denim, cottons like canvas, duckcloth and drill, and heavyweight linens.

flynn_jacket_-_technical_sketch-01_1200x

The pattern is available in ten sizes, from an Australian 6 to 24.  The key with this jacket is choosing for the right shoulder fit, and adjusting from there.  As you can see, it’s roomy.  I am having trouble remembering what size I sewed, but I suspect it was size F.  I didn’t make any adjustments for height.

In The Folds Flynn Jacket in denim from Clear It

There are so many lovely details in this one garment! The centre back inverted box pleat is really nice. I’ve seen others press this pleat but I decided to leave it unpressed and soft.  I also really love the collar/facing that goes right aroud the garment.

In The Folds Flynn Jacket in denim from Clear It

This is not a fast sew. However, the instructions are impeccable, and every single piece fitted together perfectly. Just take your time and enjoy the process.

In The Folds Flynn Jacket in denim from Clear It

Obviously it’s an unlined jacket. This actually works really well in our Melbourne climate. I have other heavier weight jackets for those especially bitter winter days, but let’s face it, even night time temperatures rarely get below zero in Melbourne winters. I have found that this jacket is easy to slip on over many outfits and the denim is fairly tightly woven and cuts lots of the wind. It successfully adds just the right extra layer of warmth. It would be a fabulous linen jacket too. Perfect for spring and autumn and even summer when you need to grab a lightweight jacket ‘just in case’ – which is often advisable when you live in Melbourne!

In The Folds Flynn Jacket in denim from Clear It

Because it’s unlined, Emily gives comprehensive instructions for finishing the seam allowances with bias binding. I made my own from quilting cotton – atually, past me made loads of bias binding from this print, and current me was very happy to find it in my stash when I started on the jacket. You could just overlock the edges instead but I think that it was worth the extra time taken to use the binding. The hem/collar facing is secured in place by ditch-stitching on the outside. I didn’t manage to perfectly catch it the entire way along the edge of the binding – more pins and some hand-stitching would have been needed for that – but it’s still pretty good.

In The Folds Flynn Jacket in denim from Clear It

There are also wonderful pockets set into the curved seam between the body of the jacket and the hem/collar. Once again, just take the time to follow the instructions carefully and you’ll end up with a beautiful result.

In The Folds Flynn Jacket in denim from Clear It

The sleeves have deep cuff facings, which can be worn turned back showing a bit of the bias binding edge finish if you wish. I have found that I wear them down at their full length. No particular reason why.

In The Folds Flynn Jacket in denim from Clear It

I highly recommend this pattern – it’s a wonderful relaxed jacket with that bit of extra style.  I’ll bring it out again to sew the vest version. That’s if I don’t succumb to the temptation of Emily’s new zip-fronted, hooded jacket/vest pattern.

adult's clothing · sewing

Olivia Oversize Tee

The Olivia Oversize Tee, by Maria Denmark, is a pattern that I’ve used a number of times.  I reach for it when I want an oversized tee that still feels a bit more ‘dressy’.

Maria Denmark Olivia Oversized Tee in viscose lycra knit from Tessuti

As designed, the neckline, sleeves and bottom hem are all finished with self fabric bands. I somehow managed to cut the sleeve bands too long, then too short, so ended up just turning a simple hem. The fabric is viscose/lycra from Tessuti, left over from the Aeolian tee I sewed for Clare.

Maria Denmark Olivia Oversized Tee in viscose lycra knit from Tessuti

The most important thing to remember when sewing this top is that you really need to stretch the neck band a lot at the bottom of that centre front curve, or it won’t sit flat. I usually sew one shoulder seam, mark points either side of the centre front where I know that the curve is more extreme, then sew on the band while stretching it more through that curve than elsewhere. It’s a practice thing.

Maria Denmark Olivia Oversized Tee in viscose lycra knit from Tessuti

Size wise, it’s a blend – all waist shaping has been removed. At the bottom hem it’s pretty much my hip measurement. I suspect that there are many more of these tees in my future.

adult's clothing · sewing

Weekend Getaway Blouse

I rather like the serendipity of having sewn the Liesl and Co Weekend Getaway Blouse on a weekend getaway (Sewjourn, of course).

Liesl and Co Weekend Getaway Blouse

I’ve actually sewn this blouse a couple of times before, but both times in the short sleeeved version. It was time to sew one for cooler weather. The fabric came to me via Restash, and it feels like a barkcloth. Definitely medium weight.

Liesl and Co Weekend Getaway Blouse

Because I’ve sewn it before the pattern pieces were already printed, assembled and cut out. This top was a skerrick too small when it was first sewn up; a combination between my weight gain and the fabric weight. Fortunately I was able to let it out through the side seams. Thank goodness for 5/8″ seam allowances! EDIT – they’re actually 1/2″ seam allowances!  That might help to explain things…..

Liesl and Co Weekend Getaway Blouse

The front collar and pleats are actually very easy to construct, although I remember that I managed to sew it on the reverse side the first time around – habit of putting right sides together seemed to override following the instructions! Speaking of instructions, as with all Liesl and Co patterns they are excellent, as is the pattern drafting.

From the pattern website: This pull-on blouse or dress is perfect to wear any day and anywhere. With a relaxed fit and a flattering V-neck, the pattern features kimono-style sleeves (meaning no sleeves to set-in) and no closures, making it very easy to sew. The blouse is designed with short sleeves. The dress includes cuffed, 3/4-length sleeves and tabbed pockets. The front facing provides an opportunity to use a fun contrasting or complimentary fabric. Suggested Fabrics: This pattern works best with drapey fabrics like lawn, voile, rayon, silk charmeuse or crepe de chine, satin, and open-weave linen.

olv-lc003wg-d_detail

Liesl and Co Weekend Getaway Blouse

The simple 3/4 length sleeve allows for turning back into a cuff. This is a blouse that can be worn in most situation, depending on the type of fabric that you use. Definitely worth having in the collection.

Liesl and Co Weekend Getaway Blouse

adult's clothing · sewing

Pattern Emporium Exhale tee

After showing you my Pattern Emporium Exhale dress, I thought I’d better show you my Exhale tee!

Pattern Emporium Exhale tee

This time I sewed size 12, and I think that the fit is perfect.

Pattern Emporium Exhale tee

This time around I sewed the hilo top option, with short sleeves and rounded high neck.  I’d been fortunate enough to try on a friend’s version at Sewjourn, and I loved the fit, so I basically just copied her!  The fabric was a gift from the same friend.  It’s a soft, stretchy knit with a matt finish.  I do like large scale floral prints!

Pattern Emporium Exhale tee

All the pattern details are in my previous blog post. This fabric was pretty delicate to sew. I used 10mm wide double sided fusible tape to secure the sleeve and bottom hems, as I knew that this would stretch out without it, then a zig zag stitch to secure. I also used a zig zag to secure the neckband seam allowances.  Sometimes I find that a twin needle just tunnels the fabric or stretches it out too much, and a zig zag gives a much nicer finish.  Construction was all on the overlocker.

Pattern Emporium Exhale tee

As you would expect, this is very fast to sew. The hilo top has two options for how ‘hi’ the front curve is – I chose the lower of the two options. Although I like a high low hemline, I didn’t want it to be too extreme – and I didn’t want belly exposure. This ticks all my boxes.

Pattern Emporium Exhale tee

I really do like all the options included in this pattern. There’s something for every climate and almost every occasion depending on fabric choice. I definitely think it’s best in a drapier fabric than something more structured. Definitely a well named pattern!