adult's clothing · sewing

New Look 6330 jacket

I have had New Look 6330 in my stash for a little while. There are a few reviews of it around the blogs, but not many. I bought it because I fancied sewing the jacket.

New Look 6330 in ponte from Darn Cheap Fabrics

There’s not a great deal of information about this pattern on the website. Misses’ knit pattern includes top, pants with elastic waist and long sleeve cardigan in two lengths with front closure. Pants can also be made in wovens. 

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I had only seen view C sewn up, the cardigan/jacket with the more conventional hemline, whereas I (possibly unsurprisingly) wanted to sew the version with the pointed front and back corners.  After reading some reviews and checking the pattern piece measurements I decided to sew size 14, but I petite-ed the body pieces by folding out some body length at around waist height throughout.  Now that the jacket is finished I think that maybe I overdid this part.

New Look 6330 in ponte from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Actually, I think that the fit overall is pretty good – I just might need to unpick those closures and buttons and move them down a little. I wanted them above waist height, but think that they’re a little too empire line where they are.

New Look 6330 in ponte from Darn Cheap Fabrics

This was easy to construct. I used the overlocker for most of it, and the twin needle for hems and to secure the front bands. The fabric is ponte from Darn Cheap Fabrics, and I found the buttons in stash. The closures are a simple loop on each side, one threaded through the other, and looped around the buttons. Much simpler to do than it looks.

New Look 6330 in ponte from Darn Cheap Fabrics

It’s an interesting silhouette. I’m surprised that more people haven’t sewn this one, actually. I really like jackets in stretch fabrics for work.

children's clothing · kids clothing · sewing · tween

Groove dress – as dress!

It amuses me that I sewed this pattern as a top twice before I got around to sewing it as an actual dress.

Groove dress in ponte from Super Cheap Fabrics

This is the Madeit Patterns Groove dress for teens, sewn in the teen size Small. We chose to sew the long sleeved version with the scoop neck. However, Clare finds the scoop neck is actually a bit wider than she would prefer. She doesn’t like necklines high at the front, so she is happy with the depth, but because she has narrow shoulders the neckline is wider than she’s prefer.

Groove dress in ponte from Super Cheap Fabrics

The fabric is a printed ponte from Super Cheap Fabrics (Brunswick store). I used soft double knit from stash to bind the neckline. As you can imagine, this was a super fast garment to construct. The overlocker was used for most of it, with hems secured with a twin needle on the machine.

Groove dress in ponte from Super Cheap Fabrics

This style does have marvellous swish. The high-low hemline is rather pronounced, so you do need to consider what the reverse side of your fabric looks like if you are sewing that version. You also need to keep your hems nice and neat, because they will be visible.

Groove dress in ponte from Super Cheap Fabrics

Groove dress in ponte from Super Cheap Fabrics

This pattern comes free with either the Women’s or the Child’s size. I bought the Women’s, so there will be one of these ahead for me as well. The pattern has a number of neckline, sleeve length and hemline options, and hopefully it will be a workhorse pattern for me as well as for the girls.

Groove dress in ponte from Super Cheap Fabrics

Worn with her Lily Knit blazer and Shredded Scarf.

adult's clothing · sewing

Style Arc Kylie knit top

I’ll say right from the start that I am VERY happy with how this top has turned out.

Style Arc Kylie top in Spotlight ponte

It is the Style Arc Kylie knit top. From their website: KYLIE KNIT TOP: Fashionable and functional top. The overlay has a high low hemline and an opening down the back. This top can be made long or short sleeves therefore suitable for all seasons. Need a basic tee? – Just leave the overlay off.  FABRIC SUGGESTION: Knit jersey.

kylie-top

Firstly, I didn’t sew this in knit jersey – well, not far off though.  I used a lightweight ponte from Spotlight that has a fair bit of stretch, despite being a double knit.  Must be plenty of spandex in that one!  I used size 12, but removed most of the waist shaping in the under layer.

Style Arc Kylie top in Spotlight ponte

Construction was on the overlocker, and most hems twin needled by machine. I really like the overlayer – the shaping is terrific on me, as is the variation in its length. And that split in the back is lovely too!

Style Arc Kylie top in Spotlight ponte

The neckband is sandwiched between the underlayer and the overlayer, and to do this according to the instructions is actually rather tricky. I am sure that I recall this mentioned on other blogs that I have read as well. I had to unpick it and re-do it the first time around. The next time I make this pattern I will probably just apply the neckband once the two layers have been placed together. This means that there will be a seam allowance on the inside, rather than as it is now hidden between the two layers, but I think that it might all sit better that way anyway. At the moment there can be some slight pulling at the front neckline where the seam allowance is secured to the underlayer of the top but not the overlayer and therefore creates different levels of tension.

Style Arc Kylie top in Spotlight ponte

I also did a pretty poor job of setting in the sleeves. I really should have eased the sleeve cap in, but because I was being lazy I took advantage of the nature of the fabric and just stretched the armscye to fit. However this does affect the final shaping a little. You might not know if I hadn’t pointed it out, but I am aware of it. When setting in sleeves in the round, you really are better off easing the sleeve cap than stretching the armscye. Remember that Lara!  You can see what it’s done to the sleeve cap in these photos, probably exacerbated by there being two layers of ponte in the body of the top but only one layer in the sleeves.

Style Arc Kylie top in Spotlight ponte

Fortunately, my friend Kathryn sewed this top at Sewjourn in May and I was able to try hers on before I made mine. It’s handy to try before you sew! Her father made the lovely wooden bead necklace that I am wearing in these photos. Thanks so much Kathryn’s dad!

Style Arc Kylie top in Spotlight ponte

This pattern has a lot of potential. I have a much lighter weight printed knit earmarked to sew it in next. I think that it would look wonderful with the overlayer and sleeves sewn in a sheer fabric too. And as Style Arc suggest, you could play with sleeve length, or just bind the armholes.  Despite the imperfections of this version, I really, really like it and am wearing it a lot.

Style Arc Kylie top in Spotlight ponte

adult's clothing · sewing

Appleton the fourth

I really may as well just refer you to my previous posts on the Cashmerette Appleton pattern.  This is its fourth outing; the second as a top/tunic.

Cashmerette Appleton top in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

After making my first Appleton top I quickly realised that it had been cut too short, and needed added length. That time I had to add the length after the top had been fully constructed – this time I was able to add the length before sewing it together. Good thing that I’d kept those scraps!

Cashmerette Appleton top in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

The seam where I’ve added length is fairly obvious, but I think that in this busy colourful print it doesn’t matter all that much. I really like the fabric. It’s a viscose/spandex print from Darn Cheap Fabrics, and I wish that I’d bought more of it. All my colours in one spot!

Cashmerette Appleton top in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Once again I chose to sew the long sleeved, cuffed version and used the long shaped ties. I don’t wrap those ties right around under my bust – that would provide even more gut emphasis and I don’t really want to do that.  At the back the tie sits pretty much on my bra line.  I do wonder if I have lengthened this top a tiny bit too much, and have considered chopping off an inch or two.

Cashmerette Appleton top in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

As usual, construction was primarily on the overlocker, with the machine used mainly for twin needling to secure the hem and the neckband. It really doesn’t take long to make – especially the fourth time around! I sewed the 12C/D size, which is the smallest. I have been considering whether I should go up to the 14 if I sew this pattern again.  I’m still eyeing off some of the other patterns that Cashmerette has launched, particularly the Concord tee and the Springfield top.  The other dresses aren’t my style.

Cashmerette Appleton top in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

It’s worn here with a Style Arc Mason jacket and Style Arc Barb pants. I feel better in the top when the jacket is worn over it.  Interestingly, it’s not the cleavage that concerns me – it’s the belly emphasis.  One of the reasons that I often gravitate to a sack dress!

adult's clothing · sewing

Waffle Patterns Vanilla top

I have been eyeing off Waffle Patterns for some time now.  I first came across them through the Oliver + S pattern shop, but I didn’t actually hit the “buy now” button on any until I saw the Vanilla Diagonal Knit Top.

Waffle Patterns Vanilla diagonal knit top in fabric from Rathdowne Fabrics

The description from the website is as follows:
+++ DESIGN
*Asymmetric dolman sleeve knit top. 
*The diagonal pattern cutting makes unique drapes and silhouette.
*loose fit with hem and cuff bands.
*3/4 sleeve length.
*Border or plaid pattern fabrics will make diagonal effect on the bodice.
*2 options for the neckline.
*Very easy to sew without difficult details.vanilla_012_1024x1024

This top is similar to some of those found in the Japanese sewing book series Drape Drape, as well as one in the latest Great British Sewing Bee book and I’m sure I’ve seen similar from Kwik Sew and McCalls.  Anyway, the finished samples that I saw on Instagram and the pattern page were enough to make me buy this one.

Waffle Patterns Vanilla diagonal knit top in fabric from Rathdowne Fabrics

I liked the V-neckline option that came with this pattern, although I did have a number of difficulties when sewing it. V-necks with narrow bands on knit fabrics can be challenging – but I got there in the end. I also liked the diagonal hemline and the 3/4 sleeve – and of course, the fact that it was a loose fitting top with plenty of drape.

Waffle Patterns Vanilla diagonal knit top in fabric from Rathdowne Fabrics

The above photo is my “check out my stripe matching” photo. The lovely cotton/spandex stripe came from Rathdowne Fabrics. It is a beautiful quality fabric and was lovely to work with. I sewed size 40, which was smaller than my measurements would have suggested, but I could still have gone down another size. There is loads of ease in this top. My hip size is a couple of sizes smaller than my waist, and this style really does need to fit around the hips in order for the volume to be a little more “contained”.

Waffle Patterns Vanilla diagonal knit top in fabric from Rathdowne Fabrics

The above photo shows that the top is a fraction large through the shoulders and neckline – a little bit flashdance, maybe? However, it stays on my shoulders, so is perfectly wearable as it is. I think that this is a great pattern, and the sleeve and hem bands just make it a bit more wearable for me than other draped/twisted/asymmetrical tops that I have seen.

Waffle Patterns Vanilla diagonal knit top in fabric from Rathdowne Fabrics

The jeans are Style Arc Misty jeans, in a brilliant “comfort” stretch denim from M.Recht that I will buy by the bucketload if it ever comes back into stock.

adult's clothing · sewing

Jungle Inari

A year or two ago I took part in a Jungle January fabric swap.  While I sent some of this gorgeous zebra-striped linen from Darn Cheap Fabrics to Liz, I also bought a length to keep.  You’re not really surprised, are you?

Named Inari dress in linen from Darn Cheap Fabrics

So, this is actually the first Named Patterns Inari Dress that I sewed, quite some months ago. I think it was a non-seasonal sew, which made it perfect to take up to FNQ.

Named Inari dress in linen from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I suspect that I sewed the straight size 40. I have heard that others have had difficulties with the armscye drafting of this pattern restricting movement – I haven’t experienced that as an issue at all. Maybe it just depends on your shape!  No concerns at all in wearing – but be aware that when you sit down or bend over that hemline definitely rises!

Named Inari dress in linen from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Those curved side seams and the splits at the bottom really make this dress, in my opinion. I know that the top version has been popular too, but it seems pretty “meh” and standard to me. It’s the dress shaping that really appeals.

Named Inari dress in linen from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Construction was shared between the overlocker and the sewing machine. I finished the neckline with a facing, that I topstitched down, and I also topstitched the hems to secure. I wear this one with the sleeve cuffs folded up (with my ponte Inari I leave them down).

Named Inari dress in linen from Darn Cheap Fabrics

If you like a sack dress – you all know thatI do! – and for some reason you haven’t sewn this one yet, I do recommend it. Especially in linen – the way that the fabric relaxes and moulds to your body, without clinging in any way, makes for a terrific summer garment.

Named Inari dress in linen from Darn Cheap Fabrics

children's clothing · kids clothing · sewing · tween

Nantucket One-Piece swimsuit

One pair of bathers apparently wasn’t enough for our FNQ holiday – Clare needed a one-piece as well!

Nantucket Swimsuit by Peekaboo Patterns in Rathdowne Fabrics print

Okay, I have a confession – Clare wasn’t the one pushing the “I need more bathers” barrow – it was me wanting to sew more of the lovely swimwear fabric that was in my stash! This fabric came from Rathdowne Fabrics. Those butterflies and flowers are so pretty! This was such a pretty fabric that it called for a fairly simple pattern. And I found the Peekaboo Patterns Nantucket One-Piece swimsuit pattern in my stash. I think I’d originally bought it as part of a pattern bundle.

Nantucket Swimsuit by Peekaboo Patterns in Rathdowne Fabrics print

Of course, the back is the highlight of these bathers. Such a lovely low scoop, highlighted with cross-over straps. The description from the website is as follows:  Get ready for a trip to the seashore with the Nantucket One-Piece Swimsuit! The Nantucket features a gathered front neckline and cross-back straps finished in a darling bow. With excellent bum coverage your little one will be comfortable playing all day long in a suit that’s sure to please. Check the Ultimate Swimsuit Fabric Shopping Guide for help finding the perfect fabric for your project :) Tutorial includes tips for sewing on swimsuit fabric and achieving a professional finish. No serger required. Includes instructions for an optional lining.  Pattern comes with a full tutorial and color photos in an easy to print PDF. Pattern pieces are computer generated and color coded for easy cutting. 

Nantucket Swimsuit by Peekaboo Patterns in Rathdowne Fabrics print

This pattern ranges in size from 3 months to size 12.  I used a combination of sizes 10 and 12 for Clare, grading up to the 12 for her hips.  I fully lined the bathers, then zig-zagged the edges together and treating them as one.  The edging was all done with fold-over elastic, so I had to depart from the instructions a little bit there. These were faster to sew than I had anticipated, and once again all the sewing was done on the sewing machine. That zig-zag stitch really earned its place!

Nantucket Swimsuit by Peekaboo Patterns in Rathdowne Fabrics print

If anything, the upper chest is a little wide and bags a fraction. The pattern has a casing here, with the ties threaded through it, which would gather it in a little. I could have probably pulled the elastic tighter when applying it to the upper front, which would have had the same effect. However, we’re both happy with these bathers overall.