adult's clothing · sewing · Uncategorized

Cashmerette Dartmouth knit top

I am becoming more and more keen on Cashmerette patterns.  I recently sewed up another version of the Springfield top (will hopefully blog that one soon) and the fit was SO good without any alterations!  My Appleton dresses and tops have had quite a bit of wear, and I’m looking forward to giving the Webster dress a go soon as well.  Although I sew the smallest size of the Cashmerette range, I am definitely shaped in a “plus size” way, and what appears to be a built in forward shoulder and sway back alteration please me greatly.

Cashmerette Dartmouth top in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

This is the Cashmerette Dartmouth knit top. The pattern description is as follows: Dreaming of a pattern that is casual and chic? Look no further than the Dartmouth Top! This cross-over jersey top comes with two variations—a classic fixed wrap or modern ruched front—and features three sleeve lengths and a gape-free banded neckline. Whether made in a cozy sweater knit or slinky silk jersey, the Dartmouth is the perfect partner for your favorite pair of jeans! RECOMMENDED FABRIC: Mid-weight knit fabric, such as cotton or rayon jersey, with at least 50% stretch. Also suitable for light to mid-weight sweater knits. 

dartmouthtopshopifytechdraw_b34abf95-5ab3-42b6-a29f-c10b32e58898_1024x1024

Now, I know that there are a million patterns out there for tops like this.  BUT, there aren’t a million of them out there drafted for shapes like mine.  I sewed size 12 C/D, graded out to a larger size through the waist, and I also folded out a couple of inches at waist level from the overall length of the pattern.

Cashmerette Dartmouth top in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

The fabric was leftovers from a dress I made earlier in the year – a slippery poly/spandex knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I love the print, but it does show every bit of muffin top from the elastic waistband of the pants underneath.

Cashmerette Dartmouth top in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

The wide band around the neckline helps the top to sit nicely. This is the version with ruching at the side seams.

Cashmerette Dartmouth top in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

This is a simple but well drafted pattern, and the instructions are very clear. I can see why Cashmerette patterns are become very popular. Even though some of the styles aren’t my cup of tea, there’s definitely a sizeable market for this range.

children's clothing · kids clothing · sewing · Uncategorized

summer pyjamas for Clare

It is SO cold today!  Winter is well and truly chilly this year (by Melbourne standards).  We are all wearing our cosiest winter pyjamas and dressing gowns and slippers and there are flannelette sheets on the beds.  But these are the pyjamas that I sewed for Clare last summer.

pyjamas - Oliver + S Sunny Day shorts and Lunch Box Tee in cotton lycra knits

I used two Oliver + S patterns to sew this set. The shorts is the free Sunny Day shorts pattern. The top is the Lunch Box Tee.

pyjamas - Oliver + S Sunny Day shorts and Lunch Box Tee in cotton lycra knits

Both pieces were sewn in knits; the shorts in a cotton/lycra from Crafty Mamas Fabrics, and I found the printed cotton jersey in given-to-me stash – maybe it used to belong to Rachel? I sewed the shorts in size 12, the largest size.  Clare has decided that they’re most comfortable on her with the legs rolled up a little.

From the Sunny Day Shorts pattern page: Every kid needs a good pair of shorts to wear outside on a sunny day, and this free sewing pattern will help you make just that pair. These quick and easy-to-sew shorts are sure to become a staple in any summer wardrobe. Suitable for both boys and girls, this pattern can be made from a variety of light- to medium-weight woven fabrics like quilting cotton, denim, canvas, chambray, and linen. The Sunny Day Shorts free sewing pattern is also perfect for customizing. Try adding pockets, applique, ribbon, embroidery, or color-blocking. Make these shorts as unique as the kid who will wear them!

This is a nicely drafted kids shorts pattern, and there is also a photo tutorial on the Oliver + S blog.  I highly recommend it if you’re learning to sew and want a simple pattern to use, as it’s so well drafted.  Simple patterns need to be shaped properly!  You’ll get a good result with this one.

pyjamas - Oliver + S Sunny Day shorts and Lunch Box Tee in cotton lycra knits

The Lunch Box Tee is another terrific pattern.  It can be worn with the sleeves folded up or left down – these are genuine freshly out of bed photos and it looks like we have one of each in the photo above!  I used the same cotton/lycra for the neckband as for the shorts, which had the right amount of recovery to get a flat neckband.  The print for the top is a bit off grain (possibly from Spotlight originally?) and although it’s a lovely cool summer fabric to wear, it doesn’t have all that much stretch.  Most construction was on the overlocker, with twin needling in a contrasting thread colour to secure the neckband and the bottom hem.  I probably sewed size 12 for Clare.

From the Lunch Box Tee pattern page: Girl’s split skirt and knit top pattern. This pattern features wide, pleated culottes that look like a full skirt but are more versatile. They can be worn for a wide range of activities from biking to turning flips on the monkey bars. Pull-on styling includes front and back inverted box pleats, back elastic, and hidden side pockets. The boxy knit top can be made up as a sweatshirt with pockets that are perfect for storing all kinds of tiny treasures, or it can be sewn up as a T-shirt with cute cuffed sleeves.

pyjamas - Oliver + S Sunny Day shorts and Lunch Box Tee in cotton lycra knits

bags · sewing · Uncategorized

More Genoa totes

I now feel that most sewers I know have made at least one Genoa tote.  It’s no wonder – such a satisfying pattern, with such a practical and pleasing result!

Genoa Tote

The pattern description says: Designed with denim in mind, the Genoa Tote borrows it’s name from the Italian city, where the first denim trousers were made. The Genoa Tote is fully-lined, features a zipped pouch and a clip for keys. The leather straps can be made in two lengths and two widths, and are attached with double capped rivets, creating beauty, strength and longevity.

Genoa Tote

I have tended to do as the description says, and have sewn my Genoa totes from denim. This one is lined in printed drill, and was a birthday gift for my delightful sister-in-law Donna.

Genoa Tote

I really do love those leather handles! Donna’s was the Medium size, which is probably my favourite. However, I recently gave the Small size a go too.

Genoa Tote

It’s really a bit hard to tell the size without something else in the photo for scale! As you can see, this one was also from denim. I cut the straps from some leather scraps that I had in stash. They are fairly soft, so don’t stand up well on their own, but the colour goes nicely with the lining.

Genoa Tote

The crochet print lining was designed by Cam and has been in stash for a few years. I’m really happy to have finally used it in something special! The pocket fabric is a Denyse Schmidt quilting cotton also from deep stash.

Genoa Tote

I’ve seen some beautiful versions of this bag sewn from leather. I’ll add that idea to my to-sew list!

adult's clothing · sewing · Uncategorized

Vogue 8909

I suspect that Vogue 8909 has been around for a little while.  Kim from The Cloth Shop recommended the pattern to me, and I’m glad that she did.

Vogue 8909 pants in navy tencel from Clear It

The Vogue website describes the pattern as follows:  Fitted (below waist) pants have elastic waistband and purchased ribbon drawstring, yoke back, side-front seams, no side seams, and side-front pockets. A, B: Elasticized leg bands. B, C:Stitched hems.

v8909_a

v8909

I sewed view B, with the elasticised cuffs.  The fabric is navy tencel from Clear It.  I’m quite pleased that tencel is around again.  I used to have a pair of orange tencel jeans back in the 1990s…and actually I wish that I still had them!  Ah, the memories.

Vogue 8909 pants in navy tencel from Clear It

I shortened these quite a bit by taking folds out of the pattern pieces before cutting, one above the knee and one below. I think I took out about three inches in total. I thought that I’d actually taken out too much length at first, but when I look at photos of these pants on a model on the Vogue website they are meant to be a little above the ankle.

Vogue 8909 pants in navy tencel from Clear It

It took quite a bit of fiddling to get the ankle elastic just right. My first attempt was way too tight and the pants rode up and sat on mid-calf. After loosening them a bit, and trying them on sitting and standing, I managed to find the sweet spot.

Vogue 8909 pants in navy tencel from Clear It

Rather than sewing three channels of elastic for the cuffs and for the waistband I chose to just use one channel with wider elastic for both. There is a fake fly at the front. I’m not completely certain why I both with these sorts of details sometimes, as they are only seen here on the blog, but at least I know that they are there.

Vogue 8909 pants in navy tencel from Clear It

I eliminated the drawstring completely. Overall I really like the fit of these pants. It was difficult to get good photos of them – I find pants difficult to photograph well in general, and my phone camera does some weird things to the proportions and makes my legs look super short (they’re actually quite long in comparison to my torso) – but I think that you can see that they while having a relaxed fit they are not sloppy. There are pockets in the slightly forward sides seams, which could be eliminated if you wanted a super fast sew, but are quite handy to have otherwise.

Vogue 8909 pants in navy tencel from Clear It

The top I’m wearing with them in these photos is the Tessuti Kate top, blogged here.  I suspect that this pattern could get another outing at some stage. It ticks many of my boxes (especially that one for an elastic waist) and I’m very pleased that Kim suggested it! Worth adding to your stash.

Vogue 8909 pants in navy tencel from Clear It

adult's clothing · sewing · Uncategorized

Jalie 2918 in Spoonflower knit

I have sewn Jalie 2918 for my husband so many times that the earlier versions are the first images that come up on a Google image search.

Jalie 2918 tee in Spoonflower cotton spandex with print by Three Branches Design

This was one of his Christmas presents.  The fabric makes it special.  It’s from Spoonflower; their cotton/spandex knit substrate.  It’s nicely stretchy and comfortable to wear, but the best thing about it is the print.  A friend of mine, Lisa Christensen, is a graphic designer, and has a number of interesting designs available on Spoonflower at Three Branches Design.  Last time there was a free international shipping offer I snapped up a few.

Jalie 2918 tee in Spoonflower cotton spandex with print by Three Branches Design

The tee itself is a basic men’s tee.  Short sleeved, long sleeved or layered sleeve options, with either a round or a vee neckline.  I sew these on the overlocker, and twin needle the hems and neckband on my sewing machine.

Jalie 2918 tee in Spoonflower cotton spandex with print by Three Branches Design

So far the fabric is washing and wearing quite well.  There isn’t much more to say about this!

Jalie 2918 tee in Spoonflower cotton spandex with print by Three Branches Design

adult's clothing · Uncategorized

Style Arc Adeline dress

I liked this dress so much that I made two!

Style Arc Adeline dress in floral cotton from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Style Arc Adeline dress in Merchant and Mills Linen

Style Arc describe this dress as follows:  ADELINE DRESS:  Great designer style dress which is easy to sew and wear. The slight cocoon shape and its roll up sleeve makes give this style a casual but trendy look.  FABRIC SUGGESTION: Linen, Silk, Crepe.

(Picture currently not uploading!)

First off I sewed size 12 without alterations in a floral cotton that I’d picked up from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table at some stage.  It was straightforward to sew.  I love the deep facings around the hemline and the neckline.

Style Arc Adeline dress in floral cotton from Darn Cheap Fabrics

On the floral dress I chose to do the topstitching in bright green as a contrast. (Actually, I chose to do it because that was the thread colour already in the machine and I figured it would work).

Style Arc Adeline dress in floral cotton from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I’m pleased with the way that this dress fits me at the back neck. There is a centre back seam, so it would be easy to tweak this to fit individual body shapes if you needed more or less curve.

Style Arc Adeline dress in floral cotton from Darn Cheap Fabrics

The back facing curves downwards, which is nice stylistic touch. The sleeve hems are quite deep, which makes them turn back and sit well.

Style Arc Adeline dress in floral cotton from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Lengthwise, this is a little longer than I prefer my hemlines. The hem has a definite curve up at the centre front and down at the centre back, which is why a hemline facing is an obvious choice. I am only 158cm tall, so that needs to be taken into account if you are sewing this dress.

Style Arc Adeline dress in Merchant and Mills Linen

There is a handy shorten/lengthen line printed on the pattern if you want to alter the length. I shortened it two inches the second time that I made it, and think it is a better length on me. This time around I sewed it in Merchant & Mills linen in a lovely smoky warm grey.

Style Arc Adeline dress in Merchant and Mills Linen

Now, grey is a bit too neutral for me, so I chose to use some teal topstitching along the pocket tops and to secure both the neckline and hem facings. I also used the selvedge to add a bit of interest along the top of the pockets. I now wish that I’d used selvedge down the centre back seam as well. Oh hindsight….

Style Arc Adeline dress in Merchant and Mills Linen

All the topstitching was done with a triple stitch. In addition to the teal topstitching, I used grey to topstitch along the centre back seam and shoulder seams. Just for that tiny bit more detail that no-one else will notice, but I will know is there!

Style Arc Adeline dress in Merchant and Mills Linen

This is a terrific style for those of us who prefer to avoid waist definition. I love both versions and know they will get loads of wear this summer!

Style Arc Adeline dress in floral cotton from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Style Arc Adeline dress in Merchant and Mills Linen