children's clothing · kids clothing · sewing · tween

Hey June Camden Raglan

Back in March (thanks Instagram for providing a date check) the weather turned cold and Clare discovered that she didn’t have any long-sleeved tees that still fitted.  So I jumped online, found the Hey June Camden Raglan, got printing, got taping, got cutting, and got sewing!

Hey June Camden Raglan in jacquard knit from Super Cheap Fabrics

Hey June Camden Raglan in cotton lycra knit from Crafty Mamas Fabrics

Hey June Camden Raglan in wool fleece from Rathdowne Fabrics

These are great examples of how fabric affects fit. But firstly, to the pattern itself. From the Hey June website: The Camden Raglan is a casual fitted tee for junior girls in sizes 6 – 16.  Its versatility will make it a great wardrobe builder in your pattern stash.  Support your favorite sports team by colorblocking with the sleeve stripes, or use the front of the shirt as a blank slate for iron-on decals or stenciling.  View A features a trendy curved hem and view B has an easy-to-sew banded hem.  Both views A and B have options for sleeve stripes, a hood, 3 sleeve lengths, wristbands, and a kangaroo pocket.

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I possibly sewed size 12 for Clare.  The Hey June Juniors range is a great range of basic patterns for tweens and teens.  So often girls patterns stop at around size 8 or so.  It’s great to find some options that keep a more typical girls shape but go up to a 16.  Great for tall kids too.  I started off with the striped top, in cotton/lycra from Crafty Mamas.  As always with Crafty Mamas Fabrics, it is a beautiful quality knit.  Substantial, with plenty of stretch and recovery.  Clare has worn this top rather a lot this winter, and it’s still looking good.

Hey June Camden Raglan in cotton lycra knit from Crafty Mamas Fabrics

These tops are FAST to sew – especially when you choose the most basic view. Front, back, raglan sleeves. Neckband (length chosen according to this tutorial, as always).

Hey June Camden Raglan in cotton lycra knit from Crafty Mamas Fabrics

This fits Clare very nicely across the shoulders and I like the curve of the hemline a great deal. As always, she could do with a sway back alteration if we wanted to avoid that bit of pooling at the centre back waistline, but to be honest, I don’t really care about it in this type of garment – especially in a growing person who will eventually pass it down to her younger sister.

Hey June Camden Raglan in jacquard knit from Super Cheap Fabrics

The pink jacquard knit came from Super Cheap Fabrics. I sewed it in exactly the same size as the stripe. It’s a very comfortable fabric to wear. We chose to use the reverse side for the neckband.

Hey June Camden Raglan in jacquard knit from Super Cheap Fabrics

Construction was all on the overlocker. I used the sewing machine to secure the neckband and hems, all with a zig-zag stitch. For the striped top I used the twin needle for the hems, with contrasting thread.

Hey June Camden Raglan in wool fleece from Rathdowne Fabrics

The jumper version was a little different to the previous two. The fabric is a wool blend fleece remnant I found at Rathdowne Fabrics. I cut it out larger than the previous versions so that it could be layered over other tops. We decided to use bands to finish the sleeves and the bottom, and to add the front kangaroo pocket. Construction was all on the overlocker, with a zig-zag stitch used to stabilise some of the seams and the neckband in particular.

Hey June Camden Raglan in wool fleece from Rathdowne Fabrics

This was very stretchy fabric to work with. It really didn’t play nice. The neckline in particular stretched way out and required plenty of steam then the zig-zag stitching to bring it back to a better approximation of where it needed to be. I wasn’t rapt with the finished product. It’s acceptable, and she’s worn it (it’s very warm) but it’s not brilliant. Fabric type – and knowing how to handle it – makes such a difference!

Hey June Camden Raglan in jacquard knit from Super Cheap Fabrics

Hey June Camden Raglan in wool fleece from Rathdowne Fabrics

Hey June Camden Raglan in cotton lycra knit from Crafty Mamas Fabrics

If you have a tween/teen, this pattern is definitely worth adding to your stash. (And thanks go to mum for the lovely knitted slouch hat).

adult's clothing · sewing · tween

Style Arc Josie hoodie

Every time I see Clare wearing this I say “nice hoodie”.

Style Arc Josie hoodie in quilted knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

This is one of those times where I got the fabric and pattern combination exactly right! The quilted knit was from Darn Cheap Fabrics, but I’m pretty sure that I’ve spotted it at other fabric shops around Melbourne too. It was bought with a garment for me in mind, but Clare snaffled it instead. That is beginning to happen more and more often…

Style Arc Josie hoodie in quilted knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I lined the hood with a striped pique knit remnant that I’d picked up somewhere around the traps (maybe from the Sewjourn exchange bin?) which was both the perfect weight and colourway to coordinate with the quilted knit. I used the same striped knit for the hemline facing.

Style Arc Josie hoodie in quilted knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Style Arc Josie hoodie in quilted knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Style Arc describe the Josie hoodie as follows:  This designer raglan sleeve hoody with its shaped corded hemline, along with the beautifulfunnel neck hood, is a perfect trans seasonal top. FABRIC SUGGESTION Baby Wool, Sweater Knit, Fleecy.

josie-hoody

I sewed size 4 for Clare.  I was concerned that the arms would be a bit too long as drafted, and we did shorten them after trying it on.  The shoulder darts give a really nice fit across the shoulders.  Raglan sleeves really do benefit from that dart!

Style Arc Josie hoodie in quilted knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Clare didn’t want the cord in the hemline, which made sewing this hoodie that little bit faster. I’d say that this has been one of Clare’s most regularly worn winter garments.

Style Arc Josie hoodie in quilted knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

children's clothing · kids clothing · sewing · tween

New Look 6444

Another garment that was finished (and photographed) a year ago.  Good thing I have these “archives” left to post on my blog, because my sewing output has reduced dramatically over the last year.  This is New Look 6444.

New Look 6444 in embroidered cotton from Chiang Mai

We bought this embroidered cotton on our first trip to Chiang Mai (you may remember the pink colourway that I used for a dress for Stella). Finding a pattern that could utilise the scalloped edge was a bit of a challenge, until we spotted New Look 6444. With this pattern we could use the edge along the shorts hem and along the edge of the ruffle.

New Look 6444

From the New Look website: Girls’ easy to sew dress and jumpsuit pattern features high low or maxi dress, and short romper or long jumpsuit with elastic at ankles. All have elastic waist with tie.

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We only had enough fabric for view B.  I used the neckline ruffle pattern piece as a guide for cutting along the scalloped selvedge.  Generally these “convertible” styles that can be worn on or off the shoulders only work well if there is plenty of elastic and gathering in the neckline (as otherwise the bodice gets distorted and there is underarm wedgie when the neckline is worn on rather than off the shoulder) – this pattern was drafted so that it can definitely be worn comfortably either way.

New Look 6444 in embroidered cotton from Chiang Mai

New Look weren’t kidding in their pattern description – this was easy to sew. The armscyes have bias binding as a finishing technique, and the waistline seam allowances form a casing to thread elastic through. I used both my sewing machine and overlocker for construction and edge finishing.

New Look 6444 in embroidered cotton from Chiang Mai

This was possibly size 12 (I’d need to locate the pattern to check). It’s a really sweet style, and I like many of the other variations in the pattern. New Look do a great job of tween/teen patterns, providing current styles with plenty of options.

New Look 6444 in embroidered cotton from Chiang Mai

There is every chance that this won’t fit this summer – Clare has grown a little, as teenagers will!  This pattern goes up to size 16, so it could be worth a second go – maybe in a dress version. Clare has discovered that despite the trendiness of jumpsuits/playsuits, they really aren’t always practical. Going to the toilet is just that little bit more challenging!

New Look 6444 in embroidered cotton from Chiang Mai

children's clothing · kids clothing · sewing · tween

McCalls 6690

Oh my goodness, there are less than ten blog posts from last year left to write.  Of course, I have a fair few from this year to catch up on, but hey…..I’m making progress!

McCalls 6690 in printed cotton size 8

This pattern – McCalls 6690 – caught my eye because it seemed very fashionable. Like something that was in the shops – and that’s important to the kids. From the pattern website: Pullover, partially lined tops and dresses have side panels (sleeveless), no side seams, side-front/side-back openings for self-belt, back button, thread loop closing and very narrow hem. Purchased bias tape finishes neckline. A: Purchased trim. B, D: Ruffles.

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m6690

We decided on view A, mainly because this style is a major fabric eater and we wanted to get it out of the fabric that was available.  As it was I used another fabric for the inside lining pieces.

McCalls 6690 in printed cotton size 8

The fabric was a printed cotton lawn, and came to me I think from Spotlight via another person’s stash (thanks Anna!). It was lovely to sew with. We eliminated the trim that the pattern suggested for this view. I cut and sewed this in size 8 after measuring the pattern pieces – clearly it has ridiculous ease; I sew a girls 12 or 14 for Clare now.

McCalls 6690 in printed cotton size 8

We didn’t need the slit with button and loop opening at the centre back – Clare can get it on and off just fine as it is. It’s an interesting pattern actually. It’s basically a tank style with princess seams in the front and back – no side seam as such – with the sleeve attaching to the front and back princess seams. The main bodice pieces are lined as well, which combines with the flappy angel sleeves to mean that you need plenty of fabric.

McCalls 6690 in printed cotton size 8

This top is a little tricky to wear with anything over it – those angel sleeves mean that you can’t fit other regular sleeves on top. This means it’s definitely something that can’t be worn trans-seasonally. As it turns out Clare hasn’t worn it much, but she’s not sure why – maybe because she was wearing other things, she suspects, rather than something being “wrong” with this. I’m not sure that it will still fit Clare this summer. There is a fair bit that needs to migrate from her wardrobe into Stella’s at the moment!

McCalls 6690 in printed cotton size 8

children's clothing · kids clothing · sewing · tween

Boo Designs Sleeved Skater dress

I sometimes find it a little challenging to get sizing right for my kids.  Both daughters are quite slim for their height (I was the same at their age; up until my late teens really). To get the combination of style, ease, and fit preferences right is not always easy.

Boo Designs Skater dress in cotton lycra knits from Crafty Mamas

I sewed this Boo Designs Sleeved Skater dress in a mixture of sizes to accommodate Stella’s wishes. She wanted a tight bodice with a fuller skirt. Stella chose all the pattern elements – which sleeve type, what skirt length, and which fabrics went where.

Boo Designs Skater dress in cotton lycra knits from Crafty Mamas

It’s interesting to me when I look at photos – it appears that Stella has the same issue as me of fabric pooling a bit at the back waist area while the front bodice is still quite fitted! When I look at this dress on Stella I think it looks too small. She thinks entirely differently and really likes it.

Boo Designs Skater dress in cotton lycra knits from Crafty Mamas

Now I am trying to cast my memory to last year (that’s when I sewed it) but I think that I sewed the width quite a bit smaller than the length for this dress. I kept the armhole depth and bodice length appropriate for Stella’s height, but the body width was a few sizes smaller in accordance with her measurements. The shoulder width was something in between.

Boo Designs Skater dress in cotton lycra knits from Crafty Mamas

The fabrics are superb European quality cotton/spandex knits from Crafty Mamas Fabrics. I finished the sleeve edges with a very narrow zig-zagged hem, and did the same with the skirt. Construction was primarily on the overlocker. The neckline is bound with the printed knit.

Boo Designs Skater dress in cotton lycra knits from Crafty Mamas

From the pattern website:

  • 2 lengths: Regular (above knee) or maxi (slightly above ankle)
  • Also interchangeable with skirts from (sleeveless) Spandex Skater Dress
  • 2 hem styles: even or hi-low
  • 4 sleeve styles: long, short, mini or flutter

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We’ll see how much wear this dress gets when the weather warms up again – and if it in fact still fits her! Stella looked over my shoulder while I was typing up this blog post and did say “oh, I do like that dress” so maybe it will be a winner after all.

Boo Designs Skater dress in cotton lycra knits from Crafty Mamas

children's clothing · kids clothing · sewing · tween

McCalls 7428

McCalls 7428 includes patterns for a girls’ top, dress, tunic, skirt and leggings.  I have to admit, that is the FABULOUS thing about non-indie patterns – you get so much bang for your buck, especially when patterns are on sale.

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7428line

Pullover tops and dress have neckband. A: Contrast back yoke. B: High-low hem, wrong side of fabric will show. C: Cold shoulder detail, purchased rhinestones, pearls and beads. Skirt and leggings have elasticized waist. Moderate stretch gauge needed.

McCalls 7428 in knit from Darn Cheap Fabric and Crafty Mamas Fabric

We chose to sew view A, the top with back interest. The fabrics are a spotted crinkled knit that was a gift from a generous friend, combined with the leftovers of a quality Crafty Mamas cotton/spandex knit I’d used for another top. The shade of blue matched perfectly!

McCalls 7428 in knit from Darn Cheap Fabric and Crafty Mamas Fabric

This pattern appealed both for the back yoke and the split shaped hemline at centre back. It wasn’t difficult to sew. I used the sewing machine for all elements of the back, as then I could pivot the needle to turn direction at the points easily, but other construction of the top was on the overlocker.

McCalls 7428 in knit from Darn Cheap Fabric and Crafty Mamas Fabric

Size wise, I probably sewed a 12 (this was months ago, and I’d need to pull out the pattern to check) with size 14 sleeve and body length. It fits nicely.

McCalls 7428 in knit from Darn Cheap Fabric and Crafty Mamas Fabric

I also pulled out the pattern to sew the pants/leggings from some bengaline remnants.

McCalls 7428 pants in bengaline remnants

There were sewn in size 12 with size 14 length. I pieced the back leg pieces to get the maximum amount of fabric from my scraps. Let’s call it a design feature!

McCalls 7428 pants in bengaline remnants

Because they’re bengaline they’re more pants than leggings, and they’re very comfy and easy to wear. There is an elastic waist, overlocked to the inside then turned again to the inside and secured in place.

McCalls 7428 pants in bengaline remnants

The pants were really an experimental project in scraps/remnants, to test out how well the pattern fitted. She’s worn them, so it must be okay!

McCalls 7428 pants in bengaline remnants

I don’t think we’ve seen the last of this pattern. I rather like the dress version too.

McCalls 7428 in knit from Darn Cheap Fabric and Crafty Mamas Fabric

children's clothing · kids clothing · sewing · tween

McCalls 7427 for Clare

McCalls describe pattern 7427 as follows: Loose-fitting cardigans and vest have shaped hems. A, B: Front self-facing. B:Purchased lace. C, D, E: Wrong side of fabric will show. D: Hood and contrast back. E:Bands and peplum with handkerchief hem.

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Clare chose view F, the cardigan with a drapey front collar.  It’s basically the same view view D, the cover photo, but without the hood.

McCalls 7427 cari/jacket in something jumper weight boucle type knit from Rathdowne

As you can see, the reverse side of the fabric shows at the front collar. The collar can be worn two ways; fairly spread out and flat, or in more of a folded waterfall.

McCalls 7427 cari/jacket in something jumper weight boucle type knit from Rathdowne

The fabric came from Rathdowne Fabrics, and is a loopy maroon knit on one side but smooth black knit (with flecks of white) on the other. It is quite stretchy and substantial, definitely cardigan weight. And you know that I’m about to say that it was very easy and fast to sew.

McCalls 7427 cari/jacket in something jumper weight boucle type knit from Rathdowne

Sewed the shoulder seams, set in the sleeves, sewed the side seams.  That was all on the overlocker.  Then turned a narrow hem and zig-zagged around the entire hemline, making sure to catch the very edge of the seam allowance so that when you could see the wrong side around the collar, the hem still looked flat and smooth.

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My guess is that I sewed size 12 for Clare (although it could have been size 14).  I’d rather like to sew her view E at some stage – I think that the peplum shaping would be rather nice on her.  This is a great easy to wear kids pattern.  Nice work McCalls!

McCalls 7427 cari/jacket in something jumper weight boucle type knit from Rathdowne