adult's clothing · sewing

Fibre Mood Frances top

Fibre Mood patterns have been popping up here and there on Instagram and in blogs.  I haven’t delved deeply into them, other than working out that Fibre Mood appears to be a European online sewing commuity and pattern magazine, with individual patterns also available for purchase.

Fibremood Frances top in vintage crepe

I gave the free Frances top pattern a crack. It’s very similar to the popular Assembly Line Cuff top (which is not free) in that it  has cap sleeves gathered into elastic ‘cuffs’.  Fibre Mood describe the Frances top as Oversized top in lightweight fabric with short, loose, gathered sleeves. A round, wide neckline on the front. The top is slightly longer in the back and the neckline has a slightly deeper cut. Sizing ranges from XS to XXXL.

Fibremood Frances top in vintage crepe

The fabric that I used is a semi-sheer crepe, from very deep stash (it’s vintage, passed on to me from someone else). It’s got the right sort of hand and drape for this pattern, and I love the contrasting white/red print, but it’s probably too predominantly black for me. It was easier to sew with than I thought. I did make sure that I stabilised the neckline before sewing and binding – I knew that otherwise it would stretch out.

Fibremood Frances top in vintage crepe

The elasticised cuffs were pretty easy to do. Essentially just sew a casing, and insert the elastic. I think that you could try this with different widths; wider might have been nice. Size wise, this is actually too big for me. I can’t remember what size I actually cut out, but in some ways it was fortunately that I cut out a larger one rather than a smaller one because I forgot that this pattern requires you to add seam allowances! If you sew it, don’t forget that seam allowances are NOT included. It’s a wearable size for me, but it feels thaat bit too voluminous all around. I am hoping that Mum will want to take this one off my hands – I can see it fitting nicely into her wardrobe!

Fibremood Frances top in vintage crepe

I’m not sure that I was excited enough by this pattern to really get into Fibre Mood at this stage. Having to add seam allowances is always a downer for me; I’m just not used to doing it. But they do seem to have some interesting styles, so I suppose that I’ll continue to pop over to their website from time to time and take a look.

adult's clothing · sewing

Cashmerette Cedar dolman top

It’s another pattern repeat!  But with a twist.  Last time I sewed the CashmeretteCedar dolman top I sewed it in a woven fabric, with faced round neckline and faced ties.

Cashmerette Cedar dolman top in knit from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

This time around I sewed it in a knit, with narrow hemmed edges, and a v-neckline. None of these changes were difficult to do, and have given the pattern quite a different look to last time.

Cashmerette Cedar dolman top in knit from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

The fabric is a poly/lycra knit from The Cloth Shop, Ivanhoe, and has a lovely hand to it, as well as some excellent colours in the print. I really do enjoy the challenge of sewing garments from remnant pieces! I folded back the front pattern piece at the centre front neckline until it formed a good angle for the V-neckline, then cut it out. I used the same assembly technique for the neckline as I use when sewing the Style Arc Abigail top. It’s easy to get a good finish when there’s a centre front seam!

Cashmerette Cedar dolman top in knit from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

In essence, construction starts with the shoulder seams.  Then apply a narrow strip (about an inch) of the self fabric along the entire neckline, right sides together.  I stretch it every so slightly, keeping the strip taught as it is applied.  Then turn it to the inside, and topstitch it in place.  On the wrong side trim the strip close to the stitching.  Of course, I do press after every seam that I sew – it really helps to get a good finish.  Then sew the centre front seam, with either lots of pins at the centre front of the V to keep it in place, or after basting.  Then continue with the rest of construction.

Cashmerette Cedar dolman top in knit from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

From the pattern website: The Cedar Dolman Top is a casual, dolman sleeve top suitable for drapey wovens or knits, with a relaxed fit and an optional pretty knotted detail. Great for beginners, this pattern is as easy to sew as it is to wear. From yoga to brunch, the Cedar has you covered! RECOMMENDED FABRIC:  Midweight jersey or technical fabric with good drape (can be stretch, but not required) or a lightweight woven such as lawn, silk, or rayon. Light weight fusible knit interfacing.

cedartechillus_0fb1d085-0e4c-49a6-83b5-0e2d3f825917_550x

I sewed size 12 C/D.  Narrow turning and hemming the lower hem and tie edges seems to have worked out okay, although it does mean that the wrong side of the fabric can show on the ties.  I didn’t have enough fabric to cut the facings.  This has proven itself to be a terrific work top for a variety of climates.  I definitely recommend the pattern.

Cashmerette Cedar dolman top in knit from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

adult's clothing · sewing

Style Arc Rae tunic

Yes, another repeat pattern.  But this time I got it all right!

Style Arc Rae tunic in knit from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

The first time I sewed the Style Arc Rae tunic I used a fabric that wasn’t quite drapey enough – it was a cotton/lycra, and this tunic really does need something that will fall a little closer to the body. Well, this fabric was perfect! It’s a polyester knit remnant that I got from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe.

Style Arc Rae tunic in knit from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

As well as having the right drape, it has wonderful colours in it. As you know, I generally try to minimise the amount of black clothing in my wardrobe as I don’t think that it does much for me. But the reds and corals and turquoises in this print really bring this fabric to life. And it’s great for accessorising!

Style Arc Rae tunic in knit from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

The pattern was released a couple of years ago at the height of ‘cold shoulder’ and split sleeve popularity. I really like the split sleeve on this design as it shows some arm but not too much, and still has bra coverage. It’s also very very easy to sew. The curved hemlines were stitched in place before sewing up the side seams – so much easier with such a definite curve. I suspect that I used double sided fusible tape (probably from here) to secure then prior to stitching.

Style Arc Rae tunic in knit from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

From the pattern website: The curved hemline and the, so popular, split sleeve give this great tunic top an easy, casual look. Simple to make with an all in one sleeve and body, this tunic will become your go to top to wear for all occasions. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Crepe, Silk or even a Knit.

rae-tunic

The line drawing shows a centre back seam with a button and loop closure – while this is a lovely detail, I didn’t need the opening and simply cut the back pattern piece on the fold.  If I sewed it in a woven I might consider including it but as I have a fairly small head I probably don’t need it in order to get the top on and off.  This pattern really does need fabric with good drape – as suggested a crepe or silk or drapey knit; I think that rayon would work really well too.

Style Arc Rae tunic in knit from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

I did some work in a hot climate earlier in the year, and this top was great!  Comfortable moving between the heat outdoors and air conditioning indoors, and work appropriate with my black bengaline Elle pants.

Style Arc Rae tunic in knit from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

adult's clothing · sewing · tessuti patterns

Demi pants in rayon

Earlier this year I sewed the Tessuti Demi pants in a fairly rigid denim, which was not the recommended type of fabric, but has been fun to wear nonetheless!  Recently I sewed the pattern again, this time in a woven rayon.  Just the type of fabric this pattern was designed for!

Tessuti Demi pants in Spotlight Rayon

The fabric came from Spotlight. They have some marvellous rayon prints this year! There’s a really nice combination of colours in this print – the smaller darker spots are really more of a blue than a black. I sewed the same size as last time, and the pattern pieces were already shortened to take my height into consideration.

Tessuti Demi pants in Spotlight Rayon

I used very wide elastic in the waistband, which is very comfortable to wear. You can’t really see the pockets because of the print. They are in the side seams, and are topstitched to the front of the pants.

Tessuti Demi pants in Spotlight Rayon

The tucks at the hemline give the pants their interesting balloon shape. There’s a deep tuck on both the front and the back leg pieces near the outer leg seam. The hems are bias bound.

Tessuti Demi pants in Spotlight Rayon

From the pattern website: This pull-on, cropped pant pattern features an elasticised waist and full leg with side stitched down pockets. A clever pleat detail at the front and back hemline is finished with a bias bind band at hem. Comfortable and stylish, the pattern is quick and easy to make and suitable for day or night. Ideal for woven fabrics including linen, lightweight wool, cottons, viscose and crepe. Not suitable for knits or stretch wovens.

Demi pants line drawing

I think that these will get lots of wear when we head to Borneo after Christmas. Length to keep off the sun and the bugs, although I’ll still need plenty of DEET on my ankles. Insects (especially mosquitoes) love me.

Tessuti Demi pants in Spotlight Rayon

adult's clothing · sewing

Simone the Fifth

I find it interesting that although I continue to buy new patterns, I continue to sew ones that I have sewn before.  I first sewed the Style Arc Simone cardigan in 2014, and since then have sewn another four.  That very first one finally ran out of ooomph after many, many wears, and I realised that I really did need another one in the same colour to replace it.  So here we have Simone the Fifth!

Style Arc Simone cardigan in ponte from Eliza Fabrics

Over the years I have discovered that a greenish yellow works really well in my wardrobe. This fabric is a quality ponte that I found at Eliza Fabrics. It works really well for this cardigan.

Style Arc Simone cardigan in ponte from Eliza Fabrics

The pockets are integrated into a fold in the front piece – rather ingenious! It also gives terrific drape in the recommended fabrics and interesting structured folds in fabrics like this soft ponte.

Style Arc Simone cardigan in ponte from Eliza Fabrics

This is size 12, no alterations. Construction is primarily on the overlocker, with the machine used to secure hems with a twin needle and to topstitch down seam allowances. From the pattern website: This clever cardigan pattern has been designed so as the drape creates the pocket. An easy every day must have cardi. Make it with or without buttons. FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION Knit jersey, slinky or any drapey knit.

simone-cardigan

I don’t think that I’m finished with this pattern yet.  Next time I’ll follow the pattern recommendations and do it in something a little lighter weight, just to change things up a bit.  It’s easy to sew, and doesn’t take all that much time, and works well with most of my wardrobe.

Style Arc Simone cardigan in ponte from Eliza Fabrics

adult's clothing · sewing

Yet another Aeolian and Flat Bottom Flo

Sewing a Pattern Fantastique Aeolian tee for Clare made me think that I could do with another one. Tada!

Pattern Fantastique Aeolian Tee

Don’t you just love that fabric! It came from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I’m not sure what the composition is, but it’s lovely and soft, yet adequately substantial.

Pattern Fantastique Aeolian Tee

I sewed size Medium, as I usually do when I make an Aeolian for myself. Most construction is on the overlocker, with hems and neckband secured and highlighted with twin needle stitching. Really, you’ve all heard my love of this pattern many, many times.

Pattern Fantastique Aeolian Tee

And behold – what are those pants I am wearing with my Aeolian tee? They are the Style Arc Flat Bottom Flo pants – and I’ve sewn them twice before.

Style Arc Flat Bottom Flo pants in very stretchy woven

It’s possibly worth popping over to see how my 2014 pair and 2017 pair fitted me – because this pair seem much looser despite me using exactly the same size 12 pattern pieces and me being quite a bit bigger this time than when I last sewed these pants! The fabric is an incredibly stretchy woven twill that I also found at Darn Cheap Fabrics. The spandex content must be extremely high.

Style Arc Flat Bottom Flo pants in very stretchy woven

From the pattern website: Every butt has a different shape! This stretch pull on pant is for those with a flatter bottom. The back side seam comes to the front giving this slightly narrow legged pant a slimming look and the back yoke adds to this flattering shape. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Stretch bengaline, stretch woven.

flo-pant

I added the back pockets to make these slightly more jeans like – and to have somewhere to put my phone.  They were super fast to sew, with construction all on the overlocker, and the machine just used for topstitching the back yoke, attaching the pockets, and securing the hems.

Pattern Fantastique Aeolian Tee

These photos were taken at the end of a day of wear, so are both looking a little creased and crumpled, but I can tell that they’ll both be welcome additions to my wardrobe.

adult's clothing · sewing

Closet Case Patterns Cielo dress

A few blog posts ago I showed you the Cielo top that I’d sewn and subsequently given to my mum.  This time I’ll show you the Cielo dress that I sewed two sizes smaller than the top.

Closet Case Patterns Cielo dress in pique

This time around I sewed size 12 (my measurements put me in size 16) and I adore the resulting garment! This is another one of my hit sews for the year. This is essentially view C of the pattern, but without the pockets. I didn’t have enough fabric to do the view with the pockets, but don’t you worry, next time I sew this dress I’ll do it with both the pockets and the lantern sleeves.

Closet Case Patterns Cielo dress in pique

A big part of my love of this dress is that I was working with the perfect fabric for it. It’s a soft cotton pique that moved from Anna‘s stash to mine, and I’m so glad that it did! Why is there not more pique in the world?  The added texture is so delightful!  And I could not get over how perfectly the colours in the print worked with my Bokyna sandals.  I wore this outfit on an incredibly hot day last week, and I stayed cool and comfortable throughout.

Closet Case Patterns Cielo dress in pique

I did the construction and topstitching in matching aqua thread on my machine, and used my overlocker to finish seam allowances (but not to construct). I decided to leave the cuffs turned up but not topstitched down. I don’t think that they need it! I used plenty of pins to secure the neckline facing before topstitching it from the right side, using a guide attached to my sewing machine to ensure that the stitching was done at the same distance from the opening for the entire way around.

Closet Case Patterns Cielo dress in pique

I really like those shoulder yoke pieces. Depending on your fabric choice you could play with the direction of print/pattern/weave or use a contrast, or pipe the seam. I went with simply cutting the pieces on a different angle, and topstitching beside the seam.

Closet Case Patterns Cielo dress in pique

You possibly haven’t been able to spot the bust darts in the print. I sewed the C cup option. The darts come from the armhole seam, and help to ensure that the dress is loose through the body but not baggy overall.

Closet Case Patterns Cielo dress in pique

From the pattern website: Part of our Rome Collection, the Cielo Dress & Top is an easy, breezy take on a boxy tee and shift dress. Loaded with interesting details and interchangeable features, it will fast become a wardrobe building favourite. Choose between a semi-cropped top with a cuffed short sleeve (View A) or dramatic gathered long sleeve (View B). Or, make an easy fitting dress with sleek inseam pockets (View C), or without pockets (View D). All views have a slightly dropped shoulder, angled shoulder yoke and roomy fit, with a choice between an elegant bias binding or faced neckline finish.

Skirt_Technical Flat

I think that this dress fills the spot in my wardrobe that used to be taken by the Inari dress, and I will definitly sew the Cielo again.

Closet Case Patterns Cielo dress in pique