adult's clothing · Lekala · sewing · tween

Tangled

This is a way overdue post – I sewed this dress/costume for Clare some months ago, for a Girl Guides event.  The theme was Disney; Clare wanted to go as Rapunzel – specifically, the “version” from Tangled. For reference:

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

I have a bit of a love/hate relationship with sewing costumes. They are often a great deal of work, and often a fair bit of expense in fabric cost. But once the girls are all dressed up in their costumes and grinning from ear to ear, it is SO satisfying! The costumes I’ve made in the past have all been worn until they’ve no longer fitted (and any that I make for Clare are then worn by Stella) so when I weigh it up they are actually a worthwhile garment to make. There may be some Cosplay sewing in my future, I suspect.

Rapunzel/Tangled costume McCalls 6420

So, on to costume details. We figured out the key elements of the costume, and looked for a pattern that contained most of them. McCalls 6420 included patterns for both Women and Girls, but nothing for tween/teen sizes. However, it did provided us with a basis to adapt.

Rapunzel/Tangled costume McCalls 6420

I took a look at the smallest Women’s pattern pieces, and knew that there was absolutely no way that the bodice was going to work on Clare. I could adapt the sleeve and skirt patterns without much hassle, but not that bodice. Over to Lekala I went! Rapunzel/Tangled costume Lekala 5017

Lekala 5017 provided the basis for the dress bodice and vest. We’d decided to sew the dress all in one with the skirt and sleeves attached to it, then the corset-style vest over it. I figured that I could use the same pattern pieces for both. I altered the neckline of the Lekala pattern pieces and redrew the hemline into a point to match the illustrations and the skirt piece on the pattern pieces, then cut into some quilting cotton to sew the vest.

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

Lekala is really wonderful for the non-standard shape. I could tell straight away that this was going to work without too much drama and alteration.

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

The front of the vest is quilting cotton, and the back is cotton drill. The vest is fully lined – I used the same quilting cotton as the central skirt panel. This costume was constructed in bits and pieces over a couple of weeks. The sleeves were fun to make. I used the McCalls pattern pieces as a base.

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

The purple stripes on the upper puffed sleeve are strips of ribbon sewn to the base fabric. The lower sleeve is pale pink stretch mesh. You can see how much I had to pin out of it to make it fitted to Clare’s arm.  I completed both sleeves, ready to be attached to the bodice, then laid them aside and moved on to the skirt.

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

I used poly satin from Spotlight for the skirt. There is a hell of a lot of fabric in that skirt, and consequently a hell of a lot of gathering! The centre front skirt panel is quilting cotton. The stretch lace trim used throughout came from Darn Cheap Fabrics.

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

The bodice fabric was also a poly satin from Spotlight, but was definitely much nicer quality (and was also more expensive) than the fabric used for the skirt. I used the same pattern pieces for the bodice as for the vest, except I placed the centre front line on the fold. It is self-lined, with a zip down the back. I have to say that sewing the zip into place in poly satin was NO fun at all. It is covered by the vest when she has the entire costume on, but I still wanted it to be fairly well inserted!

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

Then it was back to the vest!  Time to learn how to insert eyelets.  After a few experiments with the setting tool that came with the pack of eyelets (which involved a hammer and breadboard) I suddenly remembered that somewhere in my stash of handy sewing equipment I owned a setting tool that squeezed the parts together – it’s the one with the orange handles in the photo below.  The other very handy tool was the one that cut the holes for the eyelets – the one with the red handles.  I think that I bought it at Bunnings a while ago.

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

The eyelets set in much more nicely than I’d anticipated – the practice ones on scrap fabric were definitely worthwhile.  We found some purple ribbon to lace through them, and then the costume was almost complete!

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

That laces up quite nicely!  Clare had ordered cheap hair extensions from eBay, and attached them to the bottom of her plait to add extra length.  The flowers were a couple of bunches from a $2 shop that we cut up and stuck into her hair at intervals.

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

So, there you go!  I present to you all, Rapunzel!

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

She was VERY pleased with her finished costume, and I think she makes a highly convincing Rapunzel!  It looks as though this costume is going to get another outing again at Guides soon in a Halloween-related activity.  Stella’s pretty pleased with it in anticipation as well.  I’m now starting to wonder what might be a fun costume to sew next…

Rapunzel/Tangled costume

 

adult's clothing · sewing

Liesl + Co Chai Tee – twice!

I love the name of this tee – it really does just roll off the tongue!

Liesl and Co Chai Tee in striped cotton spandex from Crafty Mamas

I sewed up the Liesl + Co Chai Tee shortly after release. All of Liesl Gibson’s patterns are beautifully drafted with excellent instructions, and this pattern was no exception. From the website: This simple and stylish pull-on top is much more than a basic tee. It has an easy fit and is as comfortable to wear as your favorite T-shirt, but it brings a touch of elegance to every day with its shoulder yokes and pleats and its feminine shaping. Leave the sleeves uncuffed (View A) or stitch the cuffs in place to secure them (View B). The pattern comes with separate pieces for A/B, C, and D cup sizes to help you make a great fitting shirt. Suggested Fabrics: Designed for lightweight cotton knit fabric with moderate stretch. This tee can also be sewn from drapey woven fabrics, but you may need to go up a size or two for a good fit.

Screen Shot 2017-10-22 at 10.25.40 am Screen Shot 2017-10-22 at 10.25.59 am

Liesl and Co Chai Tee in striped cotton spandex from Crafty Mamas

I sewed this striped version in cotton/lycra from Crafty Mamas Fabrics. This is a quality fabric with loads of recovery but not masses of drape. It was interesting to compare the fit of my tee to that on the model on the website. The neckline ended up much smaller on my tee – which isn’t a criticism either way, more an observation about how fabric choices affect fit.

Liesl and Co Chai Tee in striped cotton spandex from Crafty Mamas

The shoulder yokes are cut double, and they enclose most of the associated seams. The neckline is bound, rather than having a band added. The little pleats at the shoulder add some nice detail and improve fit across the bust. I folded the pleats as per the instructions for this tee.

Liesl and Co Chai Tee in striped cotton spandex from Crafty Mamas

Size wise, this tee is a mash-up to accommodate my belly. I chose to sew the C cup version – don’t you love it when pattern pieces are provided with FBA already built in? – in size Medium, graded up to XL through the waist and back to the Medium for the hips. Basically, this meant that I removed all of the waist shaping!

Liesl and Friends Chai Tee in viscose spandex from The Cloth Shop

As it turned out, one Chai Tee simply wasn’t enough! I really wanted to see how this pattern would work in a drapier fabric, and as it turned out I had this printed viscose/spandex remnant from The Cloth Shop handy. There was just enough of it to make the tee by combining it with a solid black viscose/spandex for the shoulder yokes and neckband.

Liesl and Friends Chai Tee in viscose spandex from The Cloth Shop

This is exactly the same size as the striped version. You can see that it drapes differently on me, and the neckline is a little larger. This time around I folded the shoulder pleats the other way (contrary to the instructions) and I’ve decided that I actually prefer it.

Liesl and Friends Chai Tee in viscose spandex from The Cloth Shop

Most construction was on the overlocker, with the sewing machine used judiciously for topstitching and for attaching the neckline binding. I used a twin needle to hem the bottom of the top after securing the hemline with double sided fusible tape. The sleeves don’t require hemming, as they are cut double with the hemline on the fold.  This is the pattern length as drafted, so it’s fairly long (I’m 158cm tall).

Liesl and Friends Chai Tee in viscose spandex from The Cloth Shop

This is a lovely pattern – that step up from a basic tee. In the right fabric it is definitely a great summer office top, and it’s a nicer version of casual.  There is also a sewalong for its construction on the Liesl + Co blog.  Highly recommended.

adult's clothing · sewing

Butterick 6289 top and Style Arc April pants

Butterick 6289 was an impulse purchase the last time that Spotlight had Butterick patterns on sale.  You know how it is – they never seem to have the pattern that you really wanted, so you buy another one that you sort of like to make up the numbers to get the special offer?  This pattern was one of those.

Butterick 6289 top and Style Arc April pants

This pattern was actually released  in late 2015, but there are only three reviews of it on Pattern Review.  I think that’s a pity – in my opinion it’s a really great pattern!  Maybe it’s a case of look at the line drawings rather than the envelope photo and artwork?  There are a few options in the pattern envelope.  From the website: Loose-fitting, pullover tunic has neck band, stitched hems, overlay variations with raw edge finish.

b6289_a

b6289

As you can see, I sewed view D, the long sleeved option with the overlay covering one sleeve and the entire body.  I cut the length of the underneath body to the shorter length of view A, mostly due to fabric restrictions, but left the rest of the pattern as is.  I sewed size Medium, the 12-14, and it was plenty roomy enough around my middle.

Butterick 6289 top and Style Arc April pants

I used a knit from EK Fashion Fabrics in Sydney Road for the sleeves, neckband and overlay. It has a fair bit of stretch in one direction but not as much stretch in the other, so I paid attention to the grainlines when cutting out the top. Because I was working with a panel print, and I only had two panels, I ended up with what was a pretty good print layout but not a completely perfect one.

Butterick 6289 top and Style Arc April pants

The fabric used for the underneath body of the top was a wool blend crinkly knit from deep stash. There was just enough of it! I was determined to make this top work from the metreage that I had. It was very straightforward to construct and everything fitted together nicely – but don’t skimp on the notches and markings! You’ll need them! I decided to narrow hem the overlay edges rather than leaving them raw as per the pattern instructions.

Butterick 6289 top and Style Arc April pants

The pants are the Style Arc April pant, in the very last pieces I had of that Style Arc leather-look stretch bengaline. I’ve made these pants many, many times.  They’re really designed for ponte or a stretch knit, but they worked out okay in this bengaline.  From the pattern website: Up to minute stylized knit pull on pant, make it all one fabric, or contrast side panels as seen on the cat walk and in the fashion magazines.

april-pant

These were sewed in size 10, with construction all done on the overlocker but topstitching alongside each seam done on the sewing machine.  The stretch of the fabric, combined with the wide elastic in the waist, makes them very easy to pull on and wear.

Butterick 6289 top and Style Arc April pants

The seaming makes them that bit more special than just plain stretch leather-look pants, in my opinion. I can tell that I’ll pull this pattern out again in the years to come – actually, I think this pattern is one of Style Arc’s earliest ones!

Butterick 6289 top and Style Arc April pants

I feel great in this outfit – it’s a bit “out there” and definitely feels very me.  I’d like to try the top again with a sheer or lace overlay.  There is a stunning version of it here on Sharon’s blog (also worn with leather-look leggings).

adult's clothing · sewing

Cashmerette Springfield top again

When I first sewed the Cashmerette Springfield top I sewed it a size too big, but I thought that it was definitely worth taking the pattern out for another try.  A month or so ago I did exactly that, and sewed view B in size 12 C/D.

Cashmerette Springfield top 12 CD in thai hand woven cotton

The fabric is hand-woven Thai cotton, the leftovers from a dress that I made earlier in the year (and love dearly and wear quite often). I had just enough to eke out view B, which is the version with back princess seams. I didn’t alter the pattern at all – and this is the result!

Cashmerette Springfield top 12 CD in thai hand woven cotton

Surely there is a built-in swayback alteration to this pattern! It fits so closely through the back without being tight, yet there is plenty of room in the front for my generous tummy.

Cashmerette Springfield top 12 CD in thai hand woven cotton

I really liked sewing this fabric. The bias cut strips that finish the armholes and neckline are from the same cotton. It presses and sews very nicely, topstitches beautifully, and it’s great to wear a it relaxes into the shape of your body.

Cashmerette Springfield top 12 CD in thai hand woven cotton

The pattern descriptions is as follows: Make room in your closet for the Springfield Top! This woven shell is ideal for layering under a cardigan or pairing with dark jeans and your favorite heels. View A features a loose, swingy silhouette and optional hem band, while View B uses back princess seams to beautifully skim your curves. Both variations have scooped necklines, back yokes, and comfortably split side seams. Bring on the weekend!

alltechdrawshopfiy-05_550x

I am so impressed with this top.  It’s a definite woven fabric winner.  No gaping, nice details, lovely fit.

Cashmerette Springfield top 12 CD in thai hand woven cotton

adult's clothing · sewing

Style Arc Winsome dress

This pattern was released a little while ago, possibly around a year ago?  It’s been in my stash for a while, and I’ve seen a few versions of it online.  There were lots of aspects that I liked in the drawing, but others that I wasn’t so keen on.  Anyway, I recently sewed it up and I’m very pleased that I did.

Style Arc Winsome dress in cottonish seersucker from Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table

This is the Style Arc Winsome designer dress, and in the above photo is how I wore it a week or two ago. You can’t see all the details with that scarf on though!

Style Arc Winsome dress in cottonish seersucker from Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table

The versions I’ve seen of this online have been sewn in a variety of fabrics, including knits. I used a dark navy splodged with black cotton seersucker that was in stash – yes, originally from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table. This dress takes a fair bit of fabric, and fortunately I had plenty!

Style Arc Winsome dress in cottonish seersucker from Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table

I’ve been embracing some slower sews lately. Really, most of my clothes aren’t required in a hurry, and with working an extra day per week this year, I’ve really had to slow down in general with extracurricular activities! There are a few pattern pieces in this dress, and of course some details that take a little longer to sew and require more attention. No late night wine sewing when constructing plackets or fancy drapey pockets!

Style Arc Winsome dress in cottonish seersucker from Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table

Style Arc describe this dress as follows: The drawstring back and the draped pocket it gives this dress a true designer look. The rolled up sleeves and the asymmetrical hemline allows this dress to be worn by those who love an Avant-garde look. This is a slightly oversized style which makes it such a comfortable dress to wear and not to difficult to make. FABRIC SUGGESTION Crepe, Silk, Rayon or any fabric that drapes.

winsome-dress

Now, did you read that part where it says “fabric that drapes”?  This slightly floaty cotton definitely doesn’t fit that bill, and that affects the overall look of the garment.  I like the way it’s turned out, but it’s probably not what was envisaged by the designers, especially where the pockets are concerned.  My are very structured in comparison to others I have seen.  But to me that’s one of the joys of sewing – you need to know what the rules are so that you know what might happen when you break them!

Style Arc Winsome dress in cottonish seersucker from Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table

This is a straight size 12, and I didn’t make any alterations for length. Size wise, I think it is a pretty good fit on me. It’s not too oversized, but that’s probably because I’ve been chubbing up a bit this year and my usual size 12 fits differently! I measure closer to a 14 now. The curved hemline is a bit of fun – there is a fair bit of volume in the skirt when the breeze catches the fabric!

Style Arc Winsome dress in cottonish seersucker from Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table

The front and back princess seams make fitting and sewing straightforward, and the back drawstring casing is easy to make. Only the front placket took a little bit longer, but the instructions were quite adequate. Actually, choosing buttons was the most difficult part! I auditioned all sorts – self, contrasting, flat, shank – but in the end went for these very dark navy buttons that blended well with the fabric. I’m glad I did, as it lets the accessories shine.

Style Arc Winsome dress in cottonish seersucker from Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table

This pattern will get another outing, in something much drapier.  And yes, those huge drapey pockets are quite reminiscent of a couple of Marcy Tilton dresses I’ve sewn in the past.  There’s definitely something that attracts me to them!

adult's clothing · sewing

Dressmaker’s Dinner outfit

A month or so ago I attended the Dressmaker’s Dinner, a social event for Melbourne sewers.  It was a delicious meal at a restaurant, with a small group in attendance – my idea of a perfect evening, as I had plenty of light to examine everyone’s outfits and plenty of time to chat to them about sewing and many other things!  I decided that instead of sewing a new dress, I’d sew an outfit – pants, top and jacket.

Butterick 6464 in sequinned mesh over knit lining

Really, this outfit was planned around the jacket. The sequinned fabric was a gift from a delightful sewing friend. The sequins were embroidered on a stretch mesh, and I used plain black stretch lining to underline it.

Dressmaker's Dinner outfit in progress

It took me a little time to decide which pattern I’d use, and I settled on Butterick 6464. This is a Lisette pattern, designed by Liesl Gibson, and I always have faith in her designs (although I believe that she provides the design concept and sketches for Lisette patterns but Butterick do all the actual pattern making, grading and instruction writing).

Butterick 6464 in sequinned mesh over knit lining

There are three pieces included in this Butterick pattern, and they are described as follows: Very loose-fitting jacket has dropped shoulders and contrast bands. Fitted pullover halter top has back button loop closure and contrast neckband. Close-fitting pull-on skirt has elastic in wide waistband.

b6464_01

Screen Shot 2017-10-07 at 9.51.09 am

As you can see from the line drawing, this is a straightforward style.  There aren’t many pattern pieces, which makes it a good choice for the sequinned fabric.  I laid the sequinned fabric over the underlining, and cut them out as one.  Something I paid a lot of attention to was centring the design so that it was balanced on the front and the back of the jacket. I probably cut this out as size 12.

Butterick 6464 in sequinned mesh over knit lining

Once the pieces were cut out I overlocked all the edges of the sequinned mesh and the underlining together so that I could handle each piece as one and it wouldn’t fall apart. It was also a good way to enclose the sequins along the edges. Most things that you read will tell you to remove all the sequins from the seam allowances. I took the lazy route and left them there, after determining that they were small and not too dense, and would easily be sewn through. I had a good feel along the seam allowances once the jacket was sewn, and removed all the sequins that were caught in the stitching and were sticking out so had scratch potential. I left the rest. I also hand-stitched the seam allowances to the underlining to keep them looking flat.

Butterick 6464 in sequinned mesh over knit lining

The contrast fabric that I used for the collar and cuffs was in stash – it originally came from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 per metre table, and the colour and sheen worked beautifully with the colours of some of the sequins in the main fabric. I also used it to hem the jacket by sewing a folded strip to the hemline right sides together, then turning it to the inside, understitching near the fold, then finally hand-sewing it in place. I really wanted to keep as many sequins as possible off whatever I was wearing under the jacket!

Love Notions Lotus Blossom Blouse in wool lurex knit from Clear It

So, to what I was wearing under the jacket. I sewed myself a pair of leather-look bengaline pants that were a hybrid of the Style Arc Misty and Georgie pants pattern (mostly the Misty).

Style Arc Misty Georgie jeans in leather look bengaline

Since this was a pattern I’d used before it came together very easily. This fabric is a bit slippery to work with, so does need adequate pinning, but goes through the sewing machine and overlocker with ease. I’d been lucky enough to get the last of it from Style Arc after my first go at a pair of Georgie pants in this fabric resulted in beautifully sewn pants that had been cut out with the stretch going up and down the body instead of around it. They ended up in the bin. Take it from me – check, double check, then triple check that you are cutting out your bengaline with the stretch going AROUND the body. You won’t be able to get your pants on otherwise! (I still can’t believe that I’d sewn up the entire pair of Georgie pants before I realised what I’d done….)

Dressmaker's Dinner outfit in progress

I used the pockets, complete with topstitching, even though it’s unlikely that anyone will ever get to see them! I know that they’re there. The same thing applies to the fake fly stitching. The waistband has elastic inside it; these are pull-on jeans (my favourite kind).

Dressmaker's Dinner outfit in progress

So, on to the top. It’s a pattern I have used before, and always like on me. It’s the Love Notions Lotus Blossom Blouse.

Love Notions Lotus Blossom Blouse in wool lurex knit from Clear It

The pattern description says: Do the twist! This top is simple but packs a fun surprise. The dolman sleeved blouse is a flattering top meant for light weight drapey knits that are the same on front and back. The neckline features a gradual v-neck that is a breeze to sew. The back of the blouse can feature a special fabric such as stretch lace or a really cool scrap of knit you’ve been hoarding for years. The surprise in this blouse is the twist at the front. The shirt-tail hem really makes this top a great choice for just about any pants or skirt style. Fabric recommendations: Lightweight and drapey knits that are the same on both sides such as cotton/rayon, jersey, modal, activewear, dancewear, jersey/rayon. Knits that are the same on both sides are usually solids and stripes. If you have a print you’d like to use that is not the same on both side you may piece the front.

ladiescover

I used a wool/lurex knit from Clear It for the top.  It was slightly sheer, and different colours on each side, so I decided to cut it double for the top.  This eliminated the problem of the wrong side showing on half of the front.

Dressmaker's Dinner outfit in progress

I spent ages trying to come up with a way of constructing this top so that I could have most of the seams encased between the two layers of fabric, but in the end I just overlocked the edges of the two layers together for each piece then treated them as one.

Love Notions Lotus Blossom Blouse in wool lurex knit from Clear It

Because I’d already overlocked the edges – and to reduce bulk by pressing seams open – I constructed the top on the regular sewing machine. I used a narrow twin needle (in conjunction with double sided fusible tape) to finish the neckline, sleeves, and hem.

Dressmaker's Dinner outfit in progress

Overall, I felt great in my outfit. I really enjoyed the shine and sheen and contrast of textures. It was lots of fun – and I generally enjoy some fun in my clothing!

Butterick 6464 in sequinned mesh over knit lining

I accessorised with Django and Juliette shoes, long earrings, and my mum’s Glomesh purse. Not everything matched perfectly but the different pieces worked together in my eyes. All the sparkle!

Butterick 6464 in sequinned mesh over knit lining

One of the benefits of sewing an outfit like this is that I can hopefully mix and match the pieces in different ways with other items from my wardrobe. Not that I’ve actually done that yet, but over time, I think that I will! They’re also pieces that can accommodate weight and shape fluctuations, so they’ll hopefully stand the test of time and become “classics” in my wardrobe.

 Butterick 6464 in sequinned mesh over knit lining

adult's clothing · sewing

Style Arc Lillian, Lucinda and Evie

Thanks to those who encouraged me to pass on the blue top I blogged yesterday – it’s out of my wardrobe!  I’ll make another Presto Popover another day, in another size and a drapier fabric.  I always like to show the things that don’t work on my blog as well as the things that do!  This next outfit is one that I think does work.

Style Arc Lucinda knit jacket in cotton/spandex

Yes, it’s another Style Arc combination, and I bought all three patterns together in a bundle. It’s the Lillian jacket, Lucinda pants, and Evie tank top.

Style Arc Lucinda knit pants in cotton/spandex knit

I’ll start with the Lucinda knit pants. From the website: This pull on knit pant is the most comfortable and flattering pant you will own. The straight leg is easy to wear and the new crotch shape is great for all body shapes. The front tucks gives the pant a great easy look without causing bulk over at the centre front. FABRIC SUGGESTION Jersey knit, slinky.

lucinda-pant

I sewed these in knit jersey, not too sure about the composition but I reckon it could be a cotton and/or viscose blend, definitely with spandex in it.  I shortened the pattern pieces by taking a 5/8″ fold out of the legs both above and below the knee (I do this routinely with Style Arc pants).  Once again it’s a nice wide waistband with elastic inside it, and as usual I cut the elastic to the same length as the waistband.

Style Arc Lucinda knit pants in cotton/spandex knit

On me those lovely little front pleats – so elegant on the line drawing – open straight up to give more belly room. That’s fine, I need it! It makes them even more comfortable.

Style Arc Lucinda knit pants in cotton/spandex knit

The back view is pretty good too.  Fitted through the bum (which I prefer) but in a comfy roomy style through the leg, not too wide, not too narrow.  Despite shortening the pattern pieces, these are still a bit on the long side and may benefit from re-hemming an inch shorter.

Style Arc Evie knit top in viscose knit from The Cloth Shop

So, on to the Evie knit top!  The website says:  This staple piece is given a point of difference with a curved hem line. It will become the most useful garment in your wardrobe. Wear it under your favourite jacket to the office or casually with jeans. Have fun with the knit you choose, try a lurex knit or a fashionable print. FABRIC SUGGESTION Jersey knit, slinky.

evie-top

This is a deceptively simple pattern that produces a really good result, especially on my shape.  I used a viscose/spandex knit, originally from The Cloth Shop.  It was the perfect weight for this top.

Style Arc Evie knit top in viscose knit from The Cloth Shop

I sewed size 12, exactly as per the pattern. It skims nicely over my mid-section, and the neckline and armholes are just the right size and shape. Both are finished with narrow bands – you do need to be comfortable with this type of finish to sew this well, but it isn’t difficult. Just one of those things that benefits from practice! I must have sewn hundred of neckbands and armbands in knits by now, so I don’t have any qualms. Actually, I like that it avoids hemming! Sew on the band, press, and generally I also topstitch (often with a twin needle) to secure.

Style Arc Evie knit top in viscose knit from The Cloth Shop

Lastly, to the jacket.

Style Arc Lucinda knit jacket in cotton/spandex

This is the Lillian knit jacket. From the website: The engineered sleeve gives this gorgeous knit jacket a slim and interesting look. The collar hugs the neck and falls softly to the front. Try making it with contrast facings or contrast side panels. This will become a go to jacket, right for all occasions. FABRIC SUGGESTION Jersey knit, slinky.

lillian-jacket

I sewed size 12 in the same cotton and/or viscose spandex knit that I used for the pants.  I didn’t make any alterations to the jacket, but it probably would have benefitted from being shortened through the body for my 158cm height. It’s very long at the back!

Style Arc Lucinda knit jacket in cotton/spandex

A fair bit of the construction was on the sewing machine, especially in order to sew those pivoted underarm seams. Otherwise I used the overlocker. After wearing this I have gone back and topstitched the front facings down – they were flapping to the outside, which is a look that I never like.

Style Arc Lucinda knit jacket in cotton/spandex

This is a relaxed jacket in this fabric, which provides a great deal of comfort and include handy inseam pockets. The narrow shawl collar rolls back nicely, and overall it has some really lovely design lines. I’d like to sew this again in a jersey that doesn’t cling to itself quite as much. Wearing this outfit really is as comfortable as being in your pyjamas!