adult's clothing

Kwik Sew 3300

Subtitle for this blog post: I sewed a bra.

Kwik Sew 3300

Yes, I sewed a bra. Is it one of those sewing “rite of passage” things? Sew jeans, sew undies, sew a coat, sew bathers, sew a bra? I’m not sure. I was probably influenced by the spate of bra-sewing that has been going around instagram and sewing blogs, although I must have been influenced very early on because this bra had been sitting in a box cut out for over two years before I finally got around to sewing it up.

Kwik Sew 3300

Now, I’ll make it super clear that this was a trial. A “wearable” muslin if you like. So there is much about it that is FAR from perfect. The pattern is Kwik Sew 3300. It’s a bra pattern with vertical seaming, and it’s a style that I know from experience works fairly well on my breasts.

Kwik Sew 3300

Kwik Sew 3300

I have an uneasy feeling that this pattern is now out of print…anyway, I think that the pattern is a rather good one, which isn’t really surprising. Kwik Sew is known for quality drafting and instructions, and this is no exception. The pattern lists all the bits and pieces that are needed to construct the bra, and gives instructions for making your own straps. I sourced everything from here and there. Given that this was very much intended to be a practice piece, I did a fair bit of using what I had. The floral low-stretch mesh was in stash, as was the coordinating solid lingerie tricot that I lined the lower cups with and used for the straps. I also had elastics in stash, and bra underwires that were “supposed” to be my size. There was also a non-matching bra back closure hanging around – so I used that too. While I was at it I sewed up some matching undies from a couple of different patterns. They were much faster and simpler to sew than the bra!

Kwik Sew 3300

So, what’s my verdict about the bra sewing process? Well, I’m not enthused. Lots of fiddly bits to sew. Sourcing all the bits and pieces that you need – in colour ways that match – will either have you revelling in the hunt or else crying in despair. Fortunately there are now suppliers in Australia like Sew Squirrel who supply all you need to sew bras – I don’t think that they were around when I was accumulating bits and pieces for this one. Online is definitely the way to go for locating bra supplies. And then there is the fit. You don’t know how it will fit until it is finished. And this is how mine fits me.

Kwik Sew 3300

Um, no. Look at where those underwires sit. Bridge too wide. Back not large enough. Yes, there is promise in this pattern – but I honestly cannot be bothered with the work that it would take to tweak, make and remake until it fits me well. I’m a very standard Australian bra size, 14C, and I can easily buy a cotton moulded underwired bra (without those bloody foam cups that seem to be in most bras) from good old Target for $15. In beige. I like smooth boring beige bras. And boring smooth beige undies. They don’t show under my clothes. They don’t scratch. Okay, they’re not pretty. That’s fine with me.

Kwik Sew 3300

So, why would you want to sew bras? Maybe if you are a non-standard size and it’s difficult to find what you like in the shops. If you enjoy the fitting and tweaking process and find that satisfying. If you prefer to do your own mixing and matching of fabrics and trims. Just because it’s your thing! What can I say, go for it!  There are plenty of bra-making resources around nowadays, as well as suppliers of the things that you need.

But I’m never sewing an underwired structured bra ever again*.

*I reserve the right to sew simple stretch lace bralette types of things for the daughters if they so request.

adult's clothing · sewing

Style Arc Marilyn dress

I had a WONDERFUL afternoon and evening last Saturday.  I got to visit Style Arc in person, and to attend Melbourne Summer Frocktails!

Visit to Style Arc

There were a couple of shopping days organised as part of the Melbourne Frocktails weekend. I wasn’t able to join the group on Friday or Saturday morning, but nothing was keeping me away from visiting Style Arc on Saturday afternoon!

Visit to Style Arc

Carly, Lyn and Liz graciously welcomed us into their place of creativity and answered our million questions about Style Arc. Questions about its history, their work histories, their design process, their printing process, you name it, I think that we asked it!

Visit to Style Arc

They also had some pre-printed patterns there at a discounted price for our group. They were incredibly generous. I had already placed an online order (or two) so was able to collect that on the day. It was pretty funny watching people ferreting through the boxes trying to decide which patterns they wanted! Style Arc has a considerable inventory nowadays.

Visit to Style Arc

I’ve been sewing Style Arc patterns for quite a while now, so as some of the other group members said, for me it was like visiting my spiritual home. I got to see samples in real life as well! So much fun.

Visit to Style Arc

These are three incredibly talented women. Between them they have extensive fashion industry experience, as well as fashion industry qualifications, and it’s no wonder that their patterns are so well drafted and are such current styles. I cannot believe that they can do everything themselves – but somehow, they do! They’re a terrific example of how a business can start small and then grow and evolve, taking things one step at a time.  And on top of that, they’re so NICE!

Visit to Style Arc

So yes, I’m definitely a fangirl. I think that maybe I already was. And I’m definitely taking you up on that offer of coming back for a coffee with Chloe one day!

Visit to Style Arc

Right, this post was meant to be about the Marilyn dress – because that’s what I wore to Frocktails!

Style Arc Marilyn dress in Spotlight rayon

Style Arc describe this dress as follows: MARILYN DRESS:  The ¾ length sleeve with its fashionable split opening and tie closure makes this simple, slightly “A” line, “V” neck dress something special. The pattern allows the choice of two different neck drops, traditional and a little lower if you dare.  FABRIC SUGGESTION: Silk, Rayon, Crepe

marilyn-dress

I sewed straight size 12, eliminating the centre back neckline opening.  I chose the lower of the two neckline options.  I took a very deep hem of around 4 inches by folding up 2 inches then another two before hand stitching it in place.  On the day of Frocktails, of course….

Style Arc Marilyn dress in Spotlight rayon

The fabric is printed viscose from Spotlight, bought a couple of years ago. I bet that there are a few of you who have this in your stash! It was the perfect weight and drape for this dress; a mid-weight that just hung as swayed as it should. Fortuitously there was some silk/cotton in stash that matched it beautifully, and I used it to line the sleeves.

Style Arc Marilyn dress in Spotlight rayon

Not only did the silk/cotton feel beautiful against my skin, it provided peeks of lovely contrast. The sleeves weren’t difficult to construct – there are handy diagrams that made the entire dress construction quite straightforward. Actually, this really isn’t a difficult style to sew. There are fitting opportunities with the centre back seam too.

Style Arc Marilyn dress in Spotlight rayon

I made certain to under stitch the neckline facing to prevent it from rolling out, but forgot to stabilise the V-neckline before sewing. As a result it stretched out a teensy amount. Please, if you are sewing this, make sure that you stabilise the neckline with either stay-stitching or a fusible tape!

Style Arc Marilyn dress in Spotlight rayon

I felt fabulous in my dress – even more so because Melbourne was being unseasonably cool and so could wear the animal/bird print coat that I’d made for Frocktails a year or two ago! As always, there were many fabulous dresses. I’ll leave you with a few snaps from the night. Most were taken indoors in very dim light on my phone so the quality isn’t perfect, but they certainly give you an idea of how many fabulous sewers there are in Melbourne!

Melbourne Frocktails Nov 2016

Melbourne Frocktails Nov 2016

Melbourne Frocktails Nov 2016

Melbourne Frocktails Nov 2016

Melbourne Frocktails Nov 2016

Melbourne Frocktails Nov 2016

Melbourne Frocktails Nov 2016

Melbourne Frocktails Nov 2016

Melbourne Frocktails Nov 2016

A great deal of work goes into organising events like Frocktails – so many thanks to Kat, Libby and Renay and the rest of the team for their hard work.  Special thanks go to Jane for organising the visit to Style Arc!  Woo hoo!  You can find more Frocktails photos using the hashtag #melbournefrocktails on Instagram.

adult's clothing · Uncategorized

Style Arc Adeline dress

I liked this dress so much that I made two!

Style Arc Adeline dress in floral cotton from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Style Arc Adeline dress in Merchant and Mills Linen

Style Arc describe this dress as follows:  ADELINE DRESS:  Great designer style dress which is easy to sew and wear. The slight cocoon shape and its roll up sleeve makes give this style a casual but trendy look.  FABRIC SUGGESTION: Linen, Silk, Crepe.

(Picture currently not uploading!)

First off I sewed size 12 without alterations in a floral cotton that I’d picked up from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table at some stage.  It was straightforward to sew.  I love the deep facings around the hemline and the neckline.

Style Arc Adeline dress in floral cotton from Darn Cheap Fabrics

On the floral dress I chose to do the topstitching in bright green as a contrast. (Actually, I chose to do it because that was the thread colour already in the machine and I figured it would work).

Style Arc Adeline dress in floral cotton from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I’m pleased with the way that this dress fits me at the back neck. There is a centre back seam, so it would be easy to tweak this to fit individual body shapes if you needed more or less curve.

Style Arc Adeline dress in floral cotton from Darn Cheap Fabrics

The back facing curves downwards, which is nice stylistic touch. The sleeve hems are quite deep, which makes them turn back and sit well.

Style Arc Adeline dress in floral cotton from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Lengthwise, this is a little longer than I prefer my hemlines. The hem has a definite curve up at the centre front and down at the centre back, which is why a hemline facing is an obvious choice. I am only 158cm tall, so that needs to be taken into account if you are sewing this dress.

Style Arc Adeline dress in Merchant and Mills Linen

There is a handy shorten/lengthen line printed on the pattern if you want to alter the length. I shortened it two inches the second time that I made it, and think it is a better length on me. This time around I sewed it in Merchant & Mills linen in a lovely smoky warm grey.

Style Arc Adeline dress in Merchant and Mills Linen

Now, grey is a bit too neutral for me, so I chose to use some teal topstitching along the pocket tops and to secure both the neckline and hem facings. I also used the selvedge to add a bit of interest along the top of the pockets. I now wish that I’d used selvedge down the centre back seam as well. Oh hindsight….

Style Arc Adeline dress in Merchant and Mills Linen

All the topstitching was done with a triple stitch. In addition to the teal topstitching, I used grey to topstitch along the centre back seam and shoulder seams. Just for that tiny bit more detail that no-one else will notice, but I will know is there!

Style Arc Adeline dress in Merchant and Mills Linen

This is a terrific style for those of us who prefer to avoid waist definition. I love both versions and know they will get loads of wear this summer!

Style Arc Adeline dress in floral cotton from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Style Arc Adeline dress in Merchant and Mills Linen

adult's clothing · DCF Challenge · tessuti patterns

Simplicity 1318 – DCF Spring Challenge

I am rather excited.  Firstly, because I finished my Spring DCF Challenge* garment with a month and a half few weeks to spare (it seems that when I wrote this post I forgot that Summer starts in December!).  Secondly, because I sewed a top and a skirt to go with it – both from remnants.  And thirdly, because I am SO happy with the finished outfit!

Simplicity 1318 jacket with Tessuti Kate top and Colette Mabel skirt

It took Emma and I a little while to choose our Spring Challenge fabric this time around. Photos and web page links went back and forth, but when this woven viscose appeared on the Darn Cheap Fabrics Instagram feed, we both quickly said yes! When  I felt the fabric in person I was very pleased with our choice – it has a lovely handle with a slight slub throughout, and drapes beautifully.  And the colours – all those colours!

Simplicity 1318 jacket with Tessuti Kate top and Colette Mabel skirt

Simplicity 1318 is a kimono-style jacket pattern that has been around for quite a while. There are loads of reviews on Pattern Review, and a quick google image search brought up lots of lovely examples. This is a case where reading the reviews before cutting was extra helpful – despite my measurements fitting in the size Medium for this pattern, I cut size Small and am pleased with the resulting amount of ease.  I sewed view C, using one fabric as per the envelope cover photo.

simplicity-jackets-coats-pattern-1318-envelope-front

This is a very easy pattern to sew, as there is not a great deal of fitting adjustment to make.  It’s worth considering how long you want the finished jacket to be – I was happy to go with the pattern length as drafted – as you would need to fold this out of the front, back and band pattern pieces before cutting.

Simplicity 1318 jacket with Tessuti Kate top and Colette Mabel skirt

Rather than hand-sewing down the sleeve bands or the neckband facing, I chose to topstitch in coordinating thread. The lazy way out, yet adding another nice detail. This was a relatively fast sew. The only thing that took a little time was attaching the neck and front bands and facings. The band is interfaced, and sits nice and close at the back neck. The shaping and the support of the interfacing means that the jacket sits nicely and doesn’t feel as though it is slipping around on my relatively sloped shoulders.

Simplicity 1318 jacket with Tessuti Kate top and Colette Mabel skirt

The fabric pressed and sewed beautifully, and has just the right amount of drape. It doesn’t billow and float too much, but swishes instead.

Simplicity 1318 jacket with Tessuti Kate top and Colette Mabel skirt

While I was at Darn Cheap I spotted a couple of remnants in the remnant bin. I always find it hard to resist a remnant – both from a cost and a challenge perspective. And the two remnants that I picked up coordinated perfectly with the challenge fabric! So much so that even Helen who was helping me exert no-unnecessary-fabric-buying-willpower permitted me to buy them.

Tessuti Kate top and Colette Mabel skirt

The skirt pattern is the Colette Mabel skirt. This is the longer version of the pattern with side front panels and a kick pleat sewn into the centre back seam. This is such a straightforward, fast sew. The fabric is a very soft and stretchy yet substantial double-knit, very like a ponte yet feeling much nicer. I used every scrap.

Tessuti Kate top and Colette Mabel skirt

I did topstitch down the side front panel and the centre back seams, but you really can’t see that stitching in these photos. And I simply fused the hem with one inch wide Vliesofix tape.

Tessuti Kate top and Colette Mabel skirt

The top is the Tessuti Kate top. This is the third time I’ve sewn it. This is view A, but I bound the armholes and neckline with wide self-made bias, rather than turning the bias to the inside like a facing as per the instructions. This kept the armholes and neckline the same size as originally cut out. The last time that I sewed view A I felt that the armholes were a little too deep and the neckline a little too scooped. This time they were perfect.

Tessuti Kate top and Colette Mabel skirt

I sewed the size Large, and think that the fit is pretty spot on for me. Someone taller might want to consider lengthening this pattern a little, depending on where you want the top hemline to finish. I really like those mitred facing edges and the side splits.

Tessuti Kate top and Colette Mabel skirt

I applied the binding to the wrong side of the fabric first, then folding it over the seam allowances to the right side and topstitching close to the edge. This gives a nice even row of stitching and ensures that the binding is all attached nicely. I don’t like doing it the other way around then stitching in the ditch. Either the stitches wander a little on the right side, or part of the binding doesn’t get caught and stitched down on the wrong side. When I want to sew the binding to the right side first I have already made the decision that I will hand-sew it down on the inside.

Tessuti Kate top and Colette Mabel skirt

The top fabric is viscose crepe, in that colour that I see as rich purple but others will see as cobalt blue. There is the teensiest hole in the front near the neckline, but I hope that it isn’t obvious to others. The perils of bargain remnants. I think I pulled the bias binding a fraction tight at the upper back neck, as in these photos there appears to be some teensy wrinkles. Otherwise, I think this top is a great fit.

Tessuti Kate top and Colette Mabel skirt

When I put this outfit on I had one of those YES! moments. It was comfortable, everything fitted, and I felt great. And fortunately, I had the perfect shoes to go with it (thanks again eBay Django & Juliette sample size seller).

Simplicity 1318 jacket with Tessuti Kate top and Colette Mabel skirt

Fortunately I still have some of the fabric left over; not enough for a dress but possibly for a top. I’ll go pattern stash diving. I’ll definitely be using this jacket pattern again as well. It’s a perfect topper for in between weather and for when you need an extra light layer.

Simplicity 1318 jacket

So, I wonder what Emma sewed? Actually, I think that I already know! I’m going to run over to her blog and take a look.

Simplicity 1318 jacket with Tessuti Kate top and Colette Mabel skirt

* Emma and I started the DCF Seasonal Challenge a year or two ago – we buy  a couple of metres of the same fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics each season, and each make a garment.  We then reveal it on our blogs on the same day.  It’s just a fun thing that we started when we realised how often we buy and sew the same fabrics (often from Darn Cheap).

adult's clothing · sewing

Style Arc Maris – yes, it’s number three

Style Arc Maris top in solid knit with printed silk woven

There’s really not a great deal to say when you get to the third version of a garment. This is the Style Arc Maris top. From their website: MARIS TOP: This top has an interesting front hem panel that continues to the back giving a fabulous silhouette. 
Use your own creative flare, mixing fabrics or colours for your own individual look.  We made our sample in Linen but would also work in a knit as well.

maris-top

Style Arc Maris top in solid knit with printed silk woven

Actually, I can comment on something regarding this version. My first was all sewn in woven fabric. The second was sewn all in knit. This time I used a woven for the yoke and bottom panel, and a knit for the body. The woven is the silk scraps left over from my Vogue 1482 dress, and the body was also from scraps, this time a golden mustard viscose. I had to piece the back upper sleeve areas, which are hidden after hemming the sleeve openings.

Style Arc Maris top in solid knit with printed silk woven

The yoke is self lined. I cut it twice, sewed around the front neckline right sides together, then attached it to the shoulder seams burrito style, encasing the viscose in between the yoke outer and yoke lining when stitching. I had already finished the back neckline with a strip of viscose, like a facing. This left me with nicely enclosed seam allowances and a clean finish around the neckline. I wish I’d thought to take photographs! The rest of the construction was fairly standard.

Style Arc Maris top in solid knit with printed silk woven

Three versions of this top in one year is probably enough!

adult's clothing · Bootstrap Fashion · sewing · Uncategorized

A three-fer: Riley, Henrietta Maria and Vado.

This will be an epic blog post.  Three garments.  I am exhausted just thinking about writing it, let alone thinking about you reading it.  Be warned!

Style Arc Riley coat in wool from Clear It

Okay, I’ll start with the coat. This is the Style Arc Riley Coat. From their website:  RILEY COAT: This cleverly designed and patterned coat fits all the boxes. Suitable for every season, Riley has a very “on-trend” shape with its deep panelled raglan sleeve and free flowing front. This coat is unlined and so easy to construct. FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION: Wool, Wool Cashmere, any Suiting, Linen or Ponte

riley-coat

I chose to use a wool blend coating fabric from Clear It to sew my jacket.  I didn’t purchase quite enough, but by judiciously piecing the facings I was able to cut out the entire jacket from my fabric.  The fabric restrictions did limit the amount of check matching that I was able to do.  I focused on keeping the checks balanced more than matched.

Style Arc Riley coat in wool from Clear It

I eliminated the centre back seam in an effort to save fabric, but otherwise this is sewn pretty much as per the pattern. I did add topstitching beside certain seemliness, as the mood took me.  The description is correct – it is easy to construct.

Style Arc Riley coat in wool from Clear It

There is no closure on my coat. It can be worn with the collar folded across and pinned in place, but I’m not likely to wear it that way. I sewed size 12, which is my usual Style Arc top/dress/jacket size, but could have gone down to a 10 in this jacket.

Style Arc Riley coat in wool from Clear It

I really enjoyed working with this coating fabric. It has great texture, was easy to sew and press, and the hand-stitches securing the facings are invisible. Hooray!

Style Arc Riley coat in wool from Clear It

If you have long arms, you might want to consider lengthening the sleeves. It wouldn’t be too difficult to draft a lining either, if you prefer one. There are inseam pockets in the front seams, and I really like the angles at the centre front hemline. I am not certain that lapels at the front like this, with nothing at the back neck, is the best look for me. To me it looks very “front-heavy” which I am anyway. I think I prefer a jacket with no collar at all or one that has a roll collar at the back. Will ponder on that further. But I do recommend this pattern.

Style Arc Riley coat in wool from Clear It

So, to the top. This is the Henrietta Maria top by Scroop Patterns.

Scroop Patterns Henrietta Maria top in wool crepe from Rathdowne Fabrics

I have been reading the designer Leimomi’s blog for some time, and have always been impressed with her sewing knowledge and the thought that she puts into garments. She is a trained pattern maker and is a fashion and textile historian. This is her first pattern, and I was very impressed with both the quality of the drafting and the quality of the instructions.

Scroop Patterns Henrietta Maria top in wool crepe from Rathdowne Fabrics

I sewed this in a wool crepe remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics. It was a great choice for this top. Wool crepe is such a divine fabric to work with! It presses beautifully, and has wonderful drape. Now check out all those cartridge pleats. Just sewing the pleats took around two hours. Crikey.

Scroop Patterns Henrietta Maria top in wool crepe from Rathdowne Fabrics

I finished the inside edge of the neckline self-facing with lace, and the lower hemline with a narrow double-turned machine stitched hem. This is actually quite simple to sew, you just have to be patient because of ALL THOSE PLEATS. Have I mentioned that there are a lot of pleats?

Scroop Patterns Henrietta Maria top in wool crepe from Rathdowne Fabrics

The website describes this pattern as follows: The Henrietta Maria is a versatile, wear-anywhere trans-seasonal shift dress or top, with full raglan sleeves and cunning pleats that shape the neckline and sleeve hems. The top can be made with a straight or shaped hemline. The dress has set-in side pockets.

Dress it up for evening in chiffon and satin, make it as your go-to summer wear in cottons or viscose (rayon), or effortless winter office wear in wool crepe. Worn loose, the top and dress are great on straight figures. Belted or tucked in, they flatter the most bodacious of curves.

Recommended Fabrics:
The Henrietta Maria works best in fabrics with good draping qualities, such as lightweight wool crepes; viscose crepes; silk & synthetic crepe de chine; lightweight draping cottons such as cotton voile; and wool, viscose & cotton challis. Silk or synthetic charmeuse satins, chiffons and georgettes also work well, but are trickier to work with.

henrietta_maria_hero_image_1024x1024_a4d49077-65bf-43a9-8ab0-68a36e755ea4_1024x1024

I sewed view B, with the curved hemline.  I think that I sewed size 40, as per my measurements (it is about three haircuts ago since I sewed and photographed this, so my recollection of some details is a little hazy).  I’d rather like to sew the dress version for summer in a cool drapey fabric – but ALL THOSE PLEATS.  I might need to sew some other summer garments first.  This is a great pattern – highly recommended if you are looking for something a little out of the ordinary.

Scroop Patterns Henrietta Maria top in wool crepe from Rathdowne Fabrics

So, now to the jeans. These are the next step along my quest for non-stretch denim jeans that fit my decidedly non-standard shape. I used the Bootstrap Fashion Vado Designs boyfriend jeans. The rigid denim is from M. Recht.  From the Bootstrap website: The best-fitting jeans custom-sized sewing patterns are here. These ‘boyfriend’ style jeans have plenty of design ease around thighs and hips and require minimum measurements.They are extra long and designed to be worn rolled up. Ease: 4 3/8″ (11 cm) at hips and thigh.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado design your own flare jeans in rigid denim from Rathdowne Fabrics These are the jeans on the right in the picture above. I’ve sewn the flared version in the centre photo before, and you can read that review here. So, the jeans on me.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado Boyfriend jeans in denim from M. Recht.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado Boyfriend jeans in denim from M. Recht.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado Boyfriend jeans in denim from M. Recht.

So, right to it. I don’t love the way that these look on me from the side or the back at all. So much fabric around the upper thigh! Yes, the pattern description does say that there is plenty of ease there, and on a more typical shape it probably works well. But my legs are so thin in comparison to my torso that it’s hard to eliminate that excess while still having the non-stretch denim fit the rest of me and me still being able to move.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado Boyfriend jeans in denim from M. Recht.

I do need to emphasise however that the fit is actually GREAT from the perspective of the waist and tummy and hips fitting me – that normally NEVER happens – and the length, which is spot on.  These are also incredibly comfortable for a non-stretch pair of jeans! I do need the belt to keep them in the most comfortable position, despite me being very accurate with my measurements, but that is because without that extra bit of cinching (and consequent muffin-top) all my pants fall down. It’s why I usually go for an elastic waist. With a waist-hip differential that is so small – plus most of the measurement being on my front – most skirts or pants fall down on me.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado Boyfriend jeans in denim from M. Recht.

I was very happy with the construction of these jeans. Bootstrap Patterns have lots of detail and photos in their instructions now, and everything went together nicely. I also got some rivets for the back pockets, and in combination with the red topstitching am very happy with the final look of these jeans. I did place the pockets much closer to the centre than the pattern suggested, based on some of my existing pairs of jeans.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado Boyfriend jeans in denim from M. Recht.

Pockets were sewn from quilting cotton. I chose not to flat-fell any of the seams, as I feel that I get a similar effect with the seams overlocked then topstitched. I know it’s not as “authentic” a jeans technique, but I’m just as happy with the finished result.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado Boyfriend jeans in denim from M. Recht.

I often wonder why I put so much effort into waistband and upper pants details that will never been seen other than on this blog. I never, ever tuck anything in.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado Boyfriend jeans in denim from M. Recht.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado Boyfriend jeans in denim from M. Recht.

So, my final verdict? I think that Bootstrap Fashion (and Lekala) patterns are GREAT. I love the made-to-measure aspect and the price, and the ability to customise things like tummy and buttock protrusion. If you haven’t tried them, I really do think that you should! It does require ACCURATE measurements, and lots of them, and tweaking to find out what the fit adjustments really do. But once you’ve got it sorted, it’s wonderful – especially if you are not a “standard” shape.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado Boyfriend jeans in denim from M. Recht.

As for me and my non-stretch jeans quest? Basically, it’s over. My shape really is best in elastic waists and stretch denim. These jeans aren’t likely to get much wear at all.  In the future I’ll keep sewing my tried and true Style Arc jeans from stretch fabrics. But don’t let that put you off giving Vado jeans a go – I honestly do think that they work beautifully for lots of people, and have seen quite a few of them on blogs that look fabulous.  There is no questioning the fit.

Style Arc Riley coat in wool from Clear It

adult's clothing · sewing

Negroni shirt

Collette Negroni shirt in Liberty from Shaukat

My husband really does get the sewing crumbs from me. Every now and then I sew him a t-shirt, but if I am honest about the proportions of sewing time spent on me and the girls as compared to him, the amount of sewing I do for him is miniscule. But every now and then I pull a rabbit out of the hat.

Collette Negroni shirt in Liberty from Shaukat

This is the Colette Negroni shirt in Liberty cotton from Shaukat. It is such beautifully silky fabric to sew and to wear. I’ve sewn him the Negroni shirt twice before – a short-sleeved version here, and a long-sleeved version here. This one is also a size Medium but with the sleeves shortened considerably by taking a large fold partway down the pattern piece.  I
left off the collar button loop.

Collette Negroni shirt in Liberty from Shaukat

There is a pocket on that left shirt front – can you see it? I used one of the alternative pockets that are provided via the Colette blog here.  It’s the divet version.  You can just make it out if you look carefully.  I didn’t make any effort to match the print, but the very nature of it means that it is fairly well camouflaged.

Collette Negroni shirt in Liberty from Shaukat

As you can see in these photos, he really does NOT like modelling for blog photos – but knows that that is the price you pay if you want me to sew for you! The girls did give him a hard time about not knowing what to do with his arms. Maybe we need to find him some posing pointers!

Collette Negroni shirt in Liberty from Shaukat

The back yoke is done burrito-style, and those two small back pleats allow for a little more movement. I like the curved hemline as well. As it happens, I have another couple of lengths of Liberty in stash that are earmarked for more shirts. Maybe one for Christmas?

Collette Negroni shirt in Liberty from Shaukat