adult's clothing · sewing

Cashmerette Montrose muslin

I got rather excited when the Cashmerette Montrose pattern was released.  It’s a basic woven top with sleeves, and you may be wondering why that excited me so much.  Well, it was because of the fit of my Cashmerette Springfield top – a sleeveless woven top that fitted me beautifully in size 12 C/D without alteration.

From the pattern website: Elevate your style with the Montrose Top! This timeless pattern features two variations: View A is a scoop neck blouse with short sleeves and curved back yoke, while View B shows off lace fabrics with a jewel neck, elbow length sleeves, and keyhole back. And, there are standard or full bicep sleeve options for both. Whether you choose a delicate, embroidered tulle, or flirty floral voile, the Montrose Top is sure to be a hit! RECOMMENDED FABRIC: Light- to mid-weight woven opaque or sheer fabrics with good drape, like silk, lawn, voile or lace.

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I have some gorgeous lace in my stash that I keep looking at without knowing what pattern to sew it up with, and hoped that this pattern might be just the one that the lace had been waiting for.  Rather than doing what I often do – just cut straight into it – I decided to sew up a muslin.  I found some mid-weight cotton fabric in stash – not really quite enough, so I had to piece the back, but enough for a muslin that might have been wearable.

Cashmerette Montrose top muslin fail

I chose to sew view A with the scoop neckline and back yoke feature. I cut and sewed straight size 12 C/D, the same size I’d sewn the Springfield woven top in.

Cashmerette Montrose top muslin fail

Now, some caveats. The fabric is probably a bit stiffer than this pattern would prefer. It’s a mid-weight cotton, a bit like a quilting cotton, and this would definitely benefit from something softer and drapier.

Cashmerette Montrose top muslin fail

Also, that piecing in the back – the centre back seam and another piece – really do make the back fit look strange. That’s not the fault of the pattern. However, overall I find the fit of this top on me very disappointing. The front neckline is good, and the back neckline and yoke sit nicely across my back. The front sticks out at the bottom, the darts are probably a little high, and the shoulders seem too wide. Also, there is a great deal of excess fabric at the upper back sleeve cap.

Cashmerette Montrose top muslin fail

I really don’t know that I can be bothered adjusting this pattern to work with my body.  I need the bigger fit through the body, but my upper chest/back/shoulders are comparatively small.  My arms are pretty average I think – this is the regular sleeve option, not the one for a fuller bicep – and this sleeve has way too much space in it for me.

My first thoughts were to narrow the shoulders, remove fabric from the upper sleeve head, lower the bust darts, should I go up a cup size?  I’m a C cup….nah, I think I’ll sew something else.

 

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12 thoughts on “Cashmerette Montrose muslin

  1. I love reading your blogs Lara.. can’t see for nuts but enjoy the clothes and your writing!
    I have now seen patterns I’d like to have made with material I’ve collected.
    Thanks for sharing and keep entertaining me!

  2. Well that is strange! I hate the way the fabric sticks out at the front. It happens to me a lot. Almost like there’s no FBA done. Being a cotton – maybe it’ll soften up with washing and then drape better. Surprising seeing as the Springfield fit so well. I wonder if Casmerette will give some comments/advice. Bet you’re glad you didn’t cut into the gorgeous lace?!!

    1. This is not an FBA issue. The front sticks out because the garment is pulling to the back. If you look closely, the shoulder seam is not sitting at the top of the sleeve. Lara may need to do a round upper back adjustment. That will put more fabric at the back shoulder and less at the front. It should fit better then. Tutorial w/photos can be found on CSC.

  3. I find my The shoulders on the Cashmerette Upton dress to be too wide too, I did a narrow shoulder adjustment. I also have to shorten the bust dart by 5cm. However, these adjustments are a small price to pay for not having to do an FBA. I am sad the top was not wonderful on wearing.

  4. Look carefully at the Upton pattern photo. On the floral dress the left shoulder – you can see where the sleeve meets the bodice and it looks very low. Also on the lace top, it’s a very wide shoulder. It looks like it would be a better pattern if the shoulder line stopped half-way between the bra/camisole strap and the sleeve seam. But that might mean the sleeve would be harder to fit for other people. It’s interesting. I haven’t ventured into the Cashmerette patterns yet. I’m short. Used to be petite. But now with 38E/18E on a small frame will be hard to fit. The Cashmerette ladies look to be bigger frames overall than me. It’s complicated. That’s why it’s great to read the reviews & comments. Thanks.

  5. Thank you for the review. I bought the pattern since I have full biceps and I made my version with very light weight, sheer fabric. It would be possible that I would have had same issues with heavier fabric. They just don’t pop up so easily.

  6. Interesting, the differences between how the two patterns fit. I’m like you, there’s a time when you just cut your losses and move on. I’ve never learned how to rectify that excess fabric in the back sleeve. I’ve had that with patterns before.

  7. I was so glad I found your review on the Montrose (I would have loved to find it day before yesterday however 🙂 ) I was disappointed too! I sewed up a 14EF and the bust dart was about an 1.25 in too high (surprising for Cashmerette) and that back gathering at the yoke made it stick out – I had thought about pleating that excess rather than gathering might help that but after fiddling around with the pattern last night for almost an hr it struck me I would have to do all of this with ANY top pattern. I had chosen to make this up as something easy that I could count in being successful. I did an fsa adjustment as well but needed MUCH more which was also very strange. I’ve been in 2 minds about whether to fiddle with it much more or just chalk it up to a disappointment and move on too!

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