adult's clothing · sewing

Vogue 1515 – twice

I initially hoped to get the top from Vogue 1515 sewn up in time to participate in Jungle January.  After all, I cut it out in December, before we went away on holiday!  But that wasn’t destined to happen.  It was sewn in February.

Vogue 1515 in jacquard from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Every now and then I feel like using up small pieces of fabric from my stash, so pull them out in an effort to find just the right pattern.  This jacquard from Darn Cheap Fabrics was left over from the sleeves of the vintage coat I wore to Frocktails a year or so ago.  There was just enough to squeeze out this top.  I sewed size D.

Vogue 1515 in jacquard from Darn Cheap Fabrics

From the Vogue website: Loose-fitting pullover top has elasticized collar forming ruffle, contrast facings at armhole and lower edges, French darts, and topstitching. Below-waist skirts have wide yoke, piping, cargo pocket, hidden pocket on front yoke facing, and shaped hem. C: Side zipper.B: For moderate stretch knits only.

v1515_a

v1515

Obviously, the biggest drawcard for this top is the collar.  It’s definitely unusual!  I have discovered that I fiddle with it a fair bit in wear, but it isn’t uncomfortable.  I think that I am trying to get it just right!

Vogue 1515 in jacquard from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I added around two inches in length to the pattern by slashing at the lengthen lines and inserting paper to fill the gap.  I cut the armhole and hem facings on the straight grain, rather than the bias as instructed, and didn’t interface them.  This jacquard is relatively sculptural and also has a bit of stretch in it.  I rather like the high-low hemline, with the straight front and gently curved back.

Vogue 1515 in jacquard from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I did construct the neck ruffle differently to the instructions.  After joining the short ends into a loop, I folded it wrong sides together than sewed a channel through the two layers at the same position as the elastic markings on the pattern piece.  This allowed me to then thread elastic through from the inside and adjust it to a length that seemed to work best for me.  I also sewed the two raw edges of the neck ruffle directly to the neckline, overlocked, then topstitched to hold the overlocked seam allowance to the body of the top.  No hand-stitching here!

Vogue 1515 in jacquard from Darn Cheap Fabrics

The armhole and hem facings were also topstitched in place.  This was actually surprisingly fast to sew.

Vogue 1515 in jacquard from Darn Cheap Fabrics

So, the verdict?  It’s a bit unusual.  I think that I rather like it.  And I liked it enough to sew a dress version.

Vogue 1515 in stretch cotton sateen from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I drafted a new front and back pattern piece from the existing ones, raising the armholes around a centimetre at the side seam and then extending the side seams to add length.  I retained the same shaping at the bottom of both the front and back pieces.  This added a little bit of width as well, because of the gentle outward flare of the pattern pieces.  Because I’d altered the armholes and had added length to the body I had to draft new facings.  That wasn’t hard – I just traced around the edges of the new front and back pieces and drew and cut facings from that.  I used plain brown linen for the facings, but once again I chose not to interface them.

Vogue 1515 in stretch cotton sateen from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Despite having raised the armholes, I have discovered that the same size pattern feels much larger on the body this time around.  I’m pretty sure that it’s because this time I used a stretch cotton sateen, also from Darn Cheap Fabrics.  Although the jacquard also contained some stretch, it was a heavier fabric overall so held its shape and size better.

Vogue 1515 in stretch cotton sateen from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Someone asked if I’d tried it belted.  I never wear belts, but think that there are a couple in the depths of the wardrobe, so I might give it a go.  I think it would be good with a simple jacket for work.

Vogue 1515 in stretch cotton sateen from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I sewed this one exactly the same way as the top.  I rather think I’d like to try the top again in a dramatic, sculptural fabric to wear as a vest over long sleeved tops in winter.  In the meantime, I also fancy giving the skirt that comes in the pattern a try.

Vogue 1515 in stretch cotton sateen from Darn Cheap Fabrics

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16 thoughts on “Vogue 1515 – twice

  1. I agree with Chris that the dress and top look very sophisticated . I think the collar would drive me crazy as I don’t like anything too close to the chins. Fabulous fabric choices.

  2. Nice top on you Lara. It suits you. I love the look of the skirt. Would suit me for sure. Add it to the to do list which which just grows and grows. I will be very occupied in retirement whenever that may be. Lol

  3. I really like both versions on you. Rather than belt it, if you wanted a closer fit you could always add darts in the back. I smiled when I read that you were considering the skirt because as I read about the tops I couldn’t help thinking that the skirt looks very much your style!

  4. Noth are nice on you, but.I like the ruffle neck detail in the weight of the second fabric more than the first. I think.you could do a loose belt on this.

  5. every time I think there is nothing new in fashion there is a surprise, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a collar like this – very pretty and it has a bit of a renaissance look. love the dress version too.

  6. Both versions looks nice!. I like the look on you and other versions I’ve seen but I keep seesawing about getting this pattern for myself with the big stand up collar as isn’t a great look on me. Do you plan to make the skirt? I haven’t seen any version other than the Vogue photos.

  7. I like them both very much! I also lengthened the one version I have made, also by about two inches. I have wondered if there is an error in the pattern, actually, regarding that. When I did an initial paper fitting, the waistline mark was just under my “girls”; lengthening it got the waist mark to the right location, and definitely makes it easier to wear.

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