I initially hoped to get the top from Vogue 1515 sewn up in time to participate in Jungle January. After all, I cut it out in December, before we went away on holiday! But that wasn’t destined to happen. It was sewn in February.
Every now and then I feel like using up small pieces of fabric from my stash, so pull them out in an effort to find just the right pattern. This jacquard from Darn Cheap Fabrics was left over from the sleeves of the vintage coat I wore to Frocktails a year or so ago. There was just enough to squeeze out this top. I sewed size D.
From the Vogue website: Loose-fitting pullover top has elasticized collar forming ruffle, contrast facings at armhole and lower edges, French darts, and topstitching. Below-waist skirts have wide yoke, piping, cargo pocket, hidden pocket on front yoke facing, and shaped hem. C: Side zipper.B: For moderate stretch knits only.
Obviously, the biggest drawcard for this top is the collar. It’s definitely unusual! I have discovered that I fiddle with it a fair bit in wear, but it isn’t uncomfortable. I think that I am trying to get it just right!
I added around two inches in length to the pattern by slashing at the lengthen lines and inserting paper to fill the gap. I cut the armhole and hem facings on the straight grain, rather than the bias as instructed, and didn’t interface them. This jacquard is relatively sculptural and also has a bit of stretch in it. I rather like the high-low hemline, with the straight front and gently curved back.
I did construct the neck ruffle differently to the instructions. After joining the short ends into a loop, I folded it wrong sides together than sewed a channel through the two layers at the same position as the elastic markings on the pattern piece. This allowed me to then thread elastic through from the inside and adjust it to a length that seemed to work best for me. I also sewed the two raw edges of the neck ruffle directly to the neckline, overlocked, then topstitched to hold the overlocked seam allowance to the body of the top. No hand-stitching here!
The armhole and hem facings were also topstitched in place. This was actually surprisingly fast to sew.
So, the verdict? It’s a bit unusual. I think that I rather like it. And I liked it enough to sew a dress version.
I drafted a new front and back pattern piece from the existing ones, raising the armholes around a centimetre at the side seam and then extending the side seams to add length. I retained the same shaping at the bottom of both the front and back pieces. This added a little bit of width as well, because of the gentle outward flare of the pattern pieces. Because I’d altered the armholes and had added length to the body I had to draft new facings. That wasn’t hard – I just traced around the edges of the new front and back pieces and drew and cut facings from that. I used plain brown linen for the facings, but once again I chose not to interface them.
Despite having raised the armholes, I have discovered that the same size pattern feels much larger on the body this time around. I’m pretty sure that it’s because this time I used a stretch cotton sateen, also from Darn Cheap Fabrics. Although the jacquard also contained some stretch, it was a heavier fabric overall so held its shape and size better.
Someone asked if I’d tried it belted. I never wear belts, but think that there are a couple in the depths of the wardrobe, so I might give it a go. I think it would be good with a simple jacket for work.
I sewed this one exactly the same way as the top. I rather think I’d like to try the top again in a dramatic, sculptural fabric to wear as a vest over long sleeved tops in winter. In the meantime, I also fancy giving the skirt that comes in the pattern a try.