children's clothing · kids clothing · sewing · tween

Hey June Morrison Tee and McCalls 7150 shorts

So, back to normal programming!  Don’t think that I have suddenly started sewing in a frenzy since returning from holiday.  I have managed to sew one garment during the past fortnight but I think that there are over 30 items from last year that are still unblogged.  So I’ll gradually get them all up here.  The problem with not blogging soon after making is that I do forget some of the details.  Lesson learned – this year I will blog new makes soon after making!

Hey June Morrison tee in knit from Clear It with Simplicity shorts

This is the Morrison Tee from Hey June Handmade.  It is part of a line of Junior’s Patterns in sizes 6 to 16.  This is a great idea – the tween market is an underserved market in sewing patterns, in my view.  There is such variation in height, weight and shape among tweens that it can be very difficult to find things that are suitable.  Many children’s patterns stop at around size 10 or 12.  Although adult patterns kick in then from a height perspective, plenty of tweens/teens aren’t shaped like adults!  I often reflect on this as I look at my daughters’ friends (Clare’s in particular).  Many of these tweens and teens are shaped like adult women, but plenty aren’t.  There are super tall ones still to develop boobs and hips; there are short ones still to develop as well.  There are short ones who are already developing but don’t have the shoulder width of adult patterns.  I suppose that the lucky ones are the taller, developed ones – they can simply fit into women’s clothing (and sewing patterns).  Then “age appropriateness” becomes an issue.  It can be complicated!  These Hey June patterns go to girls size 16 with a height of 162cm – which is taller than me.  I have noticed that Simplicity and New Look in particular have a great range of fashionable girls patterns that also go to girls size 16, and Ottobre magazines have a terrific range too.   Options are there, you just have to look for them a bit harder!

Hey June Morrison tee in knit from Clear It with Simplicity shorts

Anyway, this is not a problem for Stella. I sewed her size 8 in this tee. It’s an oversized style, so it plenty loose through the body, but the armholes and length are well proportioned. The pattern description is as follows: The Morrison Tee is a casual boxy fit dolman tee for juniors.  Options include banded sleeves, cap sleeves, or long sleeves.  Choose a hi-low hem, a straight hem, or either version with a front tie hem.  The Morrison is perfect for 4 season wear and can be made dressier or more casual.  Make a slubby gray front-tie tee for lazy Saturdays or use a pretty floral for a cap sleeve top to pair with a pretty skirt and sandals for fancier occasions.  Personalize your Morrison Tee with cute iron-on decals, fabric paint, tie dye, or applique.  This versatile top will be a wardrobe staple for your tween or teen!

screen-shot-2017-02-12-at-8-55-15-am

I chose to sew the banded sleeve with front tie and hi-low hem.  It was very straightforward to construct.  The fabric is a printed cotton/viscose (?) spandex from Clear It – it’s terrific quality.  Construction was straightforward, as you’d expect if you’ve sewn multiple t-shirts before!  I really can’t remember the instructions much.  I assume that I sewed the shoulder seams, applied the neckband, sewed side seams, attached sleeve bands, then hemmed.

Hey June Morrison tee in knit from Clear It with Simplicity shorts

Oh, the shorts! I forgot about the shorts! They are from McCalls 7150, and are very straightforward elastic waist shorts. I sewed them in viscose/cotton chambray, and used pink thread to topstitch the hems.

Hey June Morrison tee in knit from Clear It with Simplicity shorts

A few more words about McCalls 7150.  The pattern description is as follows: Pullover top, tunic and dress are sleeveless and have yoke back and purchased bias tape for neckline and armholes. A: Yoke front, overlapped tulip-hem back. B: Hemline ruffle, wrong side shows. C: Applied ruffles, raw edge finish on heading. B, C: Bias bow, knot. Lined shorts, and leggings: Elastic waist. D: Thread carriers and purchased ribbon. E: No side seams. A, B, C, E: Narrow hem. Headband: Elastic, bow, knot.  

m7150_a

I sewed the view A top, in the same fabric as the shorts.  It was TERRIBLE.  I used bias tape to finish the edges, as per the instructions, and the results were horrible.  Take a look at the line drawing for this pattern.

m7150

Using “purchased bias tape for neckline and armholes” absolutely does not work on armholes with such extreme curves!  It was fine around the neckline, but those armhole curves at the centre back of the armhole are quite extreme.  There were puckers galore.  It really needed to have a facing of some kind, or be sewn only in a stretch fabric.  Definitely a wadder, which was disappointing because I’d used lovely fabric and bias binding.  You win some, you lose some.

Hey June Morrison tee in knit from Clear It with Simplicity shorts

So, back to the tee! This is a nice basic tee pattern, and one that I am sure I will come back to in the future, both for Stella and for Clare.

Hey June Morrison tee in knit from Clear It with Simplicity shorts

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14 thoughts on “Hey June Morrison Tee and McCalls 7150 shorts

  1. I have a thought about the McCall’s top. When my daughter was little, I made a similar top and lined it with a batiste weight cotton. That gave a nice, clean finish but added very little weight. If the “engineering” isn’t too complicated, it might work.

    1. That’s a great idea. I like the overall style of this top, but to sew it as directed just won’t work in a woven! I think it would be tough even in a knit! I might give it another go with a lining as you suggest.

    1. I had the same problem with my daughter. She was a late bloomer and there was definitely a gap between children’s and women’s in rtw as well as patterns. Interestingly boys are the same! My 13 year old likes much the same styling as any high school aged boy but at 155cm tall and 40kgs he doesn’t fit into clothes in regular teen/young mens stores and weight wise fits a size 10 boys but height wise is a definite 13. If I could buy patterns that are trendy enough I would make more for him.

  2. My 12 year old lass loves the Simplicity patterns. We’ve found several age appropriate things there, even styles that accommodate a growing bust. The Jalie patterns are good too – multi-sized patterns that make adjustments easy.

  3. This looks great, although Stella looks like she had somewhere else she wanted to be 😀. Even the taller tweens have trouble. DD12 is 5’8″ and developing, but shoulders are too narrow for both RTW and most adult patterns. I guess Clare is also pretty slender for the adult patterns?

    1. Yes, that is definitely an issue – shoulder breadth. Even in the Lekala adult ones we’ve ordered, she’s in the height range but I can tell that they are drafted for a wider shoulder, despite the bust/waist etc being drafted to measurements.

  4. I like this tee. I have had trouble finding teen patterns, but am very happy that some of the Burda pants and shorts patterns go down to Size 6 ladies, which seems to work for my daughter. I will be getting this tee pattern for sure!

  5. Yes I am chiming in to say thanks for the tip off for in between patterns! We have issues in this house with a 14 yr old who is the tall , thin , undeveloped variety..but also a 9yr old who will likely have developed her hourglass well before the other one (and consequently needs teen clothing for size but the age appropriate game is hard there too!!) Oh…daughters are hard!! Anyway, i went to check the link and i already own one of the patterns so I guess i better get to making it!!

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