adult's clothing · sewing

Tessuti Berlin Jacket

I have had a great deal of success with many of Tessuti’s patterns.  The Berlin Jacket is no exception.

Tessuti Berlin Jacket in wool cashmere remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics

The Tessuti website describes this pattern as follows:This collarless, longline jacket features patch pockets, extended dropped shoulders and full length sleeves with a turned back cuff.The back neck is slightly raised. Effortlessly stylish, the jacket is the ideal winter wardrobe staple and perfect for layering over dresses or any casual outfit. Ideal made up in boiled wool knits, ponti knits, boiled felted wools and neoprene fabrics. IMPORTANT: Not suitable for woven fabrics that fray when cut.

Tessuti Berlin Jacket in wool cashmere remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics

This is similar to the very popular Sydney jacket pattern, in that the edges are left raw and the pattern pieces are overlapped and topstitched throughout the majority of the construction.

Tessuti Berlin Jacket in wool cashmere remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics

This means that you do need to pay attention to the instructions. They are well illustrated throughout with photographs and explanation, so I didn’t have any issues with assembling the jacket. The front has a raw edged facing, that is topstitched in place, and the pocket tops and cuffs are made in a similar way. the only place where you have a conventional seam sewn right sides together is the side and sleeve seam.

Tessuti Berlin Jacket in wool cashmere remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics

I had this cobalt blue, almost purple, cashmere/wool remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics sitting in my stash. It was the perfect choice for this jacket. The colour is vibrant, and fraying is minimal. You really do need to pay attention to the fabric recommendations for this jacket – all those raw edges! I particularly like the way that the collar has been drafted – it sits beautifully close to my neck.

Tessuti Berlin Jacket in wool cashmere remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics

I sewed the size Medium, without any alterations. The jacket is designed to be worn with the cuffs folded back to make a 7/8 sleeve, but I find that it also looks good with them left down at full length. It was very fast to sew – probably not surprising when you think of all those raw edges and the lack of a lining – and once again is a lovely weight for an extra layer in Melbourne winter (or autumn, or spring). It’s especially nice with this scarf that my mother knitted me from One Fat Slug yarn hand-dyed by Kate (finally out of stash and being very happily worn). I’ve been sending lots of skeins of beautiful yarn in Mum’s direction lately for transformation into scarves and shawls, and she’s doing a sterling job.  Thanks Mum!

Tessuti Berlin Jacket in wool cashmere remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics

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