adult's clothing · sewing · tessuti patterns

Sydney in green

I think that most of us have an affinity for particular pattern lines, especially when it comes to independent pattern lines.  The large companies like Vogue, McCalls, Butterick, Kwik Sew, Simplicity, Burda and New Look tend to cover lots of bases in terms of style and aesthetics, although they definitely not exactly the same as one another.  In fact, they do have different tag lines to differentiate themselves.  Vogue’s is “the exclusive source for designer sewing patterns”, Butterick are “the world’s first name in sewing patterns” and McCalls claim to be “sewing patterns for today’s fashion trends” and Kwik Sew have “making sewing a success”.  This all says a little about how they position themselves in the sewing pattern market.  Independent pattern companies position themselves in different ways.  Some design for a particular shape, like Sewaholic who design for a pear shaped figure and SBCC who designs for short women.  Others design particular types of clothes, like Jalie who specialise in sports wear.  Ottobre have what appears to me to be a distinctly European aesthetic.  Style Arc say they are “the fashion industry secret that keeps you ahead of the rest”.  You could go through a huge list of companies and work out who they are primarily designing for.

So the point of this?  I think that Tessuti design patterns for people like me.  They don’t explicitly state it, but they design simple shapes with nice details that appear to be drafted for – dare I say it – an Australian middle-aged woman’s body.  Their styles don’t look remiss on younger women or older women, as they are fairly classic but are not staid and traditional and they definitely have a modern, inner-city vibe (whatever that really means!).  I really, really like most of what they design. Which brings me to the Sydney jacket!

Tessuti Sydney jacket in wool cashmere from deep stash

First, the description from their website. This oversized, draped jacket features a relaxed collar, back yoke, extended cropped raglan sleeves and side pockets. This jacket is ideal for layering over garments and is the perfect cover-up for the autumn/winter months. Ideal made up in boiled wool knits, ponti knits, boiled felted wools and neoprene fabrics. IMPORTANT: Not suitable for woven fabrics that fray when cut.

Tessuti Sydney jacket in wool cashmere from deep stash

As the description says, this jacket is constructed without edge finishes. The seams are overlapped rather than sewn right sides together (except for the side seams).  That’s why they recommend fabrics that don’t fray when cut. However, I’ve now seen some wonderful versions in other wovens; the fraying just needs to be taken into account when they are constructed, and either used as a feature on some seams or the construction methods need to be varied. Anyway, I used a fabric that doesn’t fray. Despite owning and sewing many garments from Tessuti patterns, I don’t actually use a lot of Tessuti fabric – way out of my budget most of the time! This fabric is a beautiful wool/cashmere blend that I actually found in my stash! I think it was a gift from Jodie one Sewjourn a very ong time ago – and unsurprisingly I was thrilled that there was enough of it when I went stash diving for this jacket.

Tessuti Sydney jacket in wool cashmere from deep stash

After considerable deliberations I made a straight size Medium. Although it’s an oversized style, I needed to make certain that it would fit well across the shoulders. I could possibly have made the Small, but feel that the Medium doesn’t look too big.

Tessuti Sydney jacket in wool cashmere from deep stash

Construction was simpler than I had anticipated. You definitely need to get that chalk pencil out and mark a big cross on all the wrong sides of the fabric pieces, and take things one step at a time in order to jigsaw all the pieces together. I’d have liked a few more markings on the pattern pieces to let me know what edge went with what, but figured it all out without much difficulty. Just don’t rush!

Tessuti Sydney jacket in wool cashmere from deep stash

Like others, I had wondered what the point was in a winter jacket with short sleeves and no lining or closure – but it’s actually been very warm and snug to wear, especially given that Melbourne is so well heated indoors during winter. Thumbs up for this pattern! If it wasn’t such a distinctive style (and if I didn’t have about 497 jacket and coat patterns in stash) I’d even make it again.

Which pattern lines do you have a particular affinity for – and do you know why?

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18 thoughts on “Sydney in green

  1. I agree with you about Tessuti patterns, but they also fit English middle aged women! I am a similar shape to you, although larger in every direction, and I love the way my middle area is treated, especially in the dresses. I have found most of the patterns I have used fit straight away with only possibly a very minor alteration. I love that, and they manage to make me look a better shape than I am.

  2. Beautiful colour on you and great jacket. I’ve sewn a few basics from MariaDenmark recently and I’ve been pleased with the outcome. I have two Indigo Junction tunic patterns that I go back to frequently as well. Simple lines that allow prints and lovely fabric to shine.

  3. Interesting thoughts on Tessuti patterns Lara – I think they draft for my body type!! Everything skims me beautifully and I rarely have to adjust. And you and I have very different body types! Anyway, that green is divine on you. And I think you should make another – I now have two and am contemplating a third!!!

  4. Great jacket – I seem to be fishing around for “my” style at the moment. I used to like more fitted, classic clothes, but as I get older and my lifestyle is more relaxed I am changing to think mostly about comfort, but trying to keep it a little stylish and fun (or at least that is what I like to think!)

  5. How lovely and unique. I enjoyed your musings on various pattern lines as well. Now I’m going to take a look at Tessuti patterns. I’ve only done one but haven’t really looked at the line – thks!

  6. Great colour on you! I find I’m drawn to the style of Salme, Grainline and Style Arc patterns – simple and stylish….. But I’m really a bit of a pattern strumpet – a bit of this, a bit of that keeps me happy!

  7. Sydney looks great in green! I had never really thought about different pattern companies having different styles/ markets before – but then again most of the patterns I use are either free patterns found on line or 50c op shop bargains, so a whole range of different types and brands!

  8. Lovely jacket! I think you are spot on with Tessuti patterns as I have hated every single one they have released! They just seem too old for me 😉 and absolutely don’t suit my figure type. Not to mention their restricted size range…. Every time one goes crazy on Australian blogs I think people look awesome, but still absolutely not for me. I have still not found a pattern company that speaks to my style or my figure – I don’t think there is one.

  9. I agree with you on tessuti patterns drafting for middle aged Aussie women. The draft and styles tick all the boxes for me. I also find style arc patterns easy to fit it my body. Another Australian pattern company. Coincidence? I think not!
    I’m on the hunt for done wool to make myself a Sydney. Love the green on you.

  10. I am working on a Tessuti pattern at the moment myself – the Margot pant. I do love their aesthetic, and I am a middle-aged American woman, thick in the middle but lacking a bit in the bust and bum;) I love that Sydney, and will keep it in mind for when the weather cools off here in Texas.

  11. I love the look of most their patterns also. There is just something about their silhouettes that appeals to so many people I know! This jacket looks great! The colour is simply perfect for you. I have been wondering about shorter sleeves on garments for cooler weather until I made a cape last year. While I wouldn’t wear it now (simply too cold) it is a staple for autumn/early spring.

  12. I like all of Tessuti’s patterns but most of them on other people and not on me. Why, well for the most part, they have no waist shaping and this is something that I find a must on my shape. I have generous hips and anything without a defined waist can tend to make me look heavy. My favourites for this reason are Sewaholic and Grainline. I have learn’t so much about what works and what doesn’t for me since I began blogging.

    I love your Sydney jacket and the colour is lovely. While green is one of my colours it is one I don’t wear enough of for some reason.

  13. I love your green Sydney jacket. If it’s warm enough for Melbourne it should be right for Adelaide! I love Tessuti patterns, as well as Style Arc and Grainline. I can easily change these patterns slightly for a good fit – better than any RTW anyway!

  14. I love your coat/jacket -on you.
    Your musings on pattern lines are very apt. Every time I have pattern lust elicited by other people’s amazing creations I remind myself that sewing to suit one’s own figure is very important, and that some lines are designed for figure attributes that I don’t have, which is why photos of garments on non-models, and with no pins in the back are so inspiring!

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