adult's clothing · sewing

Eva the third

I had a flying visit to Canberra in late October for my aunt’s 90th birthday celebrations.  While I there I managed a very quick trip to Addicted to Fabric.  Wow, what a wonderful fabric shop!  Large, light, bright and friendly.  And in addition to many beautiful fabrics, they had a number of sample garments hanging up on display.  Many of these were the Tessuti Eva dress, made in printed cotton sateens.  I have made the Eva twice before, but always thought of it made from fabrics like linen.  But after I saw these samples I was convinced – I needed one in cotton sateen!

Tessuti Eva dress in cotton sateen

As with my previous versions, I used size Medium. I have wondered a few times if I should downsize to the Small, but I know that in wearing – in contrast to when standing for photos – I prefer my garments to have more ease rather than less. I just find it more comfortable. I also shortened the skirt by taking a significant fold out of the pattern piece of the lower skirt.

Tessuti Eva dress in cotton sateen

In the sateen the lantern shape of the skirt is emphasised. It doesn’t collapse, but rather it becomes more sculptural. I really love this effect! I also copied Addicted to Fabric by using bias bindings around the edges rather than using bias binding as facings turned to the inside, as per the instructions. This makes the armholes and neckline a little smaller, and it makes them a little more defined and sculptural like the skirt shape. I also bound the hemline.

Tessuti Eva dress in cotton sateen

When binding necklines, armholes and hems like this it is much simpler and neater to apply the binding to the WRONG side of the garment, then turn it to the outside of the garment and topstitch in place, enclosing the seam allowances and covering the seamline. This way you will make sure that the binding is secure and the stitching will be straight and even on the outside. It won’t matter if it wavers a fraction on the inside. This is the opposite to the instructions for the binding on the Tessuti Ruby top, where you are directed to attach the bindings to the outside, turn to the inside enclosing the seam allowances, then stitch in the ditch to secure. It is SO difficult to do that stitching in the ditch neatly on the outside while ensuring that you catch all of the folded edge on the inside. Unless you prefer to hand-stitch your bindings in place on the inside, try doing things the opposite way as I just detailed. I’ve recently made a Ruby top and followed their binding instructions rather than doing it my own way, much to my chagrin!

Tessuti Eva dress in cotton sateen

The fabric was a gift from Anna, and it’s just perfect for me! Thank you so much! I really, really like this dress, and will definitely be using this pattern again. It fits right into my lifestyle – and my Funkis clogs and Elk jewellery work really well with it too.


25 thoughts on “Eva the third

  1. I cannot overstate how much I love this dress. That fabric is to die for and the style looks great on you. Plus those clogs! I think you may be my spirit animal.

  2. I really, really like this dress on you. It is very becoming!! I just made a dress using the other technique and, you are right, it is tricky to make sure it is done right. I will be trying this technique.


    1. Totally agree and thanks for letting us know that you shortened the lower pattern piece. I’m about your height and from your first photo I thought it would be ok as is, but I’m back to my original plan of shortening ? maybe both pattern pieces. It is definitely something you have to do before you cut out the fabric.

  3. Oh my Lara! That fabric is perfect for you! And even though I had a new favourite make of yours earlier this month, I think this one has just superceded it! The colour! The cut! All perfect!

    It was so good to see you that day at A2F. So glad you got great inspiration!

    By the way – thanks for the tips on the bias binding! Genius! I would never have thought of doing that (My brain doesn’t work laterally like yours does!)

  4. Fabulous dress and those shoes! I haven’t made the Eva yet, I might give it a try seeing how good it looks on you. It would be lovely and cool for summer. Glad you enjoyed A2F, that’s ‘my’ fabric shop.

  5. I really love this outfit! Gorgeous fabric – thanks Anna! And I agree, the more sculptural lines suit it really well.
    Thanks for the binding tip as well, I do love it when someone’s done the hard work & clarified instructions for the rest of us – even if it may have caused some disgruntled muttering… 😉

  6. I love Addicted to Fabric – before I moved back to Melbourne, I lived five minutes away. Why keep a stash of zips/thread/buttons/whatever, when you can just duck in any day of the week and buy exactly what you need? I’m still a Bag Lady (early entry into their twice-yearly sales), but I haven’t been back in ages.

    The downside of Canberra was the lack of bargain fabric shops – by the time I left, there was only Spotlight, and that was on the far side of Queanbeyan. I still miss the high-end shop that used to be in Kingston 😦

    Now I live in Melbourne; while my closest fabric shop is half an hour away (Spotlight Bayswater); if I make a big effort and fire up the Myki or fill up the tank I have a huge range available, from Darn Cheap all the way to the amazing shop full of designer fabric in Armadale. But I do miss a five-minute trip to pick up a reel of thread.

  7. Lara, this is gorgeous! The fabric looks really lovely on you, and the dress is beautiful. You look great! You’ve tempted me to try the Eva, I’ve had it in my stash for ages now, but I’m worried I’m too short for it, with all of my 152cm.

  8. I love the eva pattern but it was too small, I made the small but still roomy, gave it to my taller sister and she loved it must make another you are a gem for pushing on…thanks Lara, would never have done it in Sateen.

  9. This is the best version of this dress I have seen. All those plain linen versions seem so boring in comparison. Now that Tessuti has released this pattern in plus sizes (with others to follow) I would like to make it myself, and generally prefer prints to plain fabrics for summer dresses.
    Thanks for mentioning Addicted to Fabric. I had never heard of it before but do visit Canberra occasionally so I’ll go there next time.

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