The StyleARC Marni jacket was actually designed to be made in ponte (ponti. Which spelling is correct? I don’t know and I’m not sure that I really care – we all know what I mean). Last time I sewed it in a stretch woven. When I was at Sewjourn in May I sewed it up in ponte.
This ponte was fairly thick and spongy. I think that it may have come from Spotlight, but I can’t be absolutely certain. I made this in size 12, as I had previously, with no changes.
Because of the sponginess of the ponte I topstitched around the entire front collar edges, to keep the turn of cloth in the right places. It is an unlined jacket, although I have seen a terrific lined version by Kirsty where she drafted her own lining. I really like the shawl collar and the peplum. I only secured the peplum pleats at the top where they are seamed to the body of the jacket, rather than topstitching them down for a few inches as per the pattern instructions. I figured that they needed to be released at my tummy level, rather than risking the chance of them pulling across my widest part. Normally the topstitching down the princess seams would continue down the top few inches of the pleats. Not for me.
I also topstitched around the sleeves above the cuff seam. I really do like that split cuff. It is easy to construct but makes a really nice feature. I didn’t include any sort of closure for my jacket, but it wouldn’t be difficult to do. The only disappointment for me is bulge at the centre waistline seam, right at the front edges. There is just a bit too much bulk there with intersecting overlocked seams in the spongy ponte. I notice it, but I’m not sure that non-dressmakers would.
Overall verdict? Two is probably enough in this design, but never say never. I primarily wear them for work and they are perfect for my sedentary-at-the-computer job.