Back to my Sewjourn makes from May! This jacket is the longer version from Vogue 8839.
It’s a Marcy Tilton pattern, designed for moderate stretch knits only. As per the pattern description, “Loose-fitting jacket has contrast reverse side, front extending into collar, collar/front/sleeve/lower bands, side front seams, welt pockets, darted sleeve cap, no shoulder seams, and topstitching. Bands (collar, sleeve, lower): cut on crosswise grain of fabric.”
I used a double-faced wool blend double-knit (kindly sent to me from the USA last year), so was able to show off both colours of the fabric in the resulting jacket. I cut it out at size Small (8-10) after checking the finished garment measurements. I also eliminated the welt pockets, knowing that I was unlikely to ever actually use them in an unlined knit jacket. And to be honest, wanting to eliminate a detail that I knew could be easily stuffed up in a knit.
The front, bottom and collar edges are all deliberately left raw. This means that you really need to cut straight. The vast majority of the assembly was done on the overlocker, with the seams then pressed to one side and topstitched. It looks quite good on both the inside and the outside in this fabric.
I chose to use the longer cuff piece, and in the end it was too long. I have since folded it in half to the inside and have stitched it down. In wearing I fold the cuff over again to the outside. It makes the perfect length for me and sits nicely around the wrist.
The raglan sleeve and shoulder dart really do make this jacket fit well around the shoulders and chest. You can play around with the collar and wear it a few different ways, especially with a brooch or pin. I am not likely to make this jacket again soon – I have other patterns that I really do want to get to, and it’s quite distinctive – but I do recommend it. A great casual knit jacket.