adult's clothing · sewing

Vogue 8813

This is one of those patterns that I thought would be sewn up the second that it arrived, but wasn’t.  I’m glad that it is now – especially as we move into spring.  It will be perfect for the weather we are having at the moment!

Vogue 8813

Vogue 8813 is a Marcy Tilton pattern. I haven’t used any of her patterns before, and when I trawl through Pattern Review and take a look at the ones that have been made, I’ve noticed that they seem to predominantly be the choice of middle-aged women – and the reality is that is at 44 I am probably middle-aged too. Maybe we are drawn to the interesting design lines and longer-lasting styles rather than designs that are more form-fitting and currently trendy. And maybe by now we know what we like and what suits us?  What do you think? Anyway, Vogue describe this as “Pullover dress (semi-fitted through bust) has gathered front extending into back collar, side front seams, draped lower side front with pockets, and stitched hems. A: pleat and button trim on pockets. A and C: narrow hem on cap sleeves.”.  They’re pretty much right.

Vogue 8813

There is a seam across the back of the bodice, and one down the centre back. Both of these provide back interest but are very difficult to see in this fabric. I sewed this dress in a combination of sizes Medium (for width) and Small (for bodice length) and took a short torso tuck out of the skirt as well. I’m only 5’2″! The fabric is a lightweight textured stripe jersey from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I actually sewed this dress with the “wrong” side of the fabric out, as it had more interesting folds and bumps. I could have sewed the entire dress as a small – the jersey gives enough stretch, and the design is very roomy. Oh well, you live and learn!

Vogue 8813

I have re-done the gathered front since taking this photo, drawing the gathers in tighter than specified in the pattern. There is a YouTube video where Marcy shows how she does the gathering. I didn’t use it – maybe I found it after I’d made the dress! But I will watch it before I make this again in a woven fabric.

Vogue 8813

Another change that I made was to add elastic through a channel in the top of the pockets. I didn’t think that this fabric was going to drape the way I’d like, and so elastic provides control over the copious amounts of fabric there. This was added before sewing down the side and front seams.  After sewing a channel I threaded elastic through, then played around with it until the length seemed about right, secured it, and sewed the rest of the seams.  I recommend this pattern – it’s a little different and unusual, and I’ll be making it again in a lightweight linen or similar with short sleeves for summer.  There are some terrific versions of this dress on Marcy Tilton’s webpage and blog here.

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