adult's clothing · sewing

McCalls 6395 #1

Entirely inspired by Carolyn, I’ve made McCalls 6395, with leather accents.

McCalls 6395

This is a combination of view B and view C. I cut size 12 throughout, but made my usual short woman alterations by folding out around and inch and a quarter at the waist, and the same from the sleeve length. The sleeves are meant to be self lined – whatever for? I didn’t line them at all. I did add exposed zippers on the sleeves and at the centre back, as suggested in the pattern, but used the same length zip for all three.

McCalls 6395

The sleeves are two piece and very roomy through the bicep – something that I normally like and that makes them very easy to wear, but looking at the photos there is possibly a bit too much ease there. I also should have stabilised the tops of the pockets with interfacing before stitching on the leather trim – they have stretched out a bit and are don’t sit flat when the dress is worn, although they do when it is lying flat. But I could maybe call that a design feature…

McCalls 6395

The fabric is a double-sided mystery knit remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics. It is quite spongy and soft, and is black on the reverse. When I cut this dress out I was intending to make the skirt with the black side out. But I forgot, and before I knew it I’d sewn it all up with green as the right side for the entire dress. Then I remembered…too late!

McCalls 6395 - sleeve detail

I had some small scraps of leather that were luckily just enough for this dress. I cut strips, sewed them on then flipped them over and top-stitched them down. I used a teflon foot, and a sharp new needle, and it all worked just fine. I also added some topstitching – around the neckline, above the waist seam, and for the hem. I’m quite pleased with the finished dress – and quickly cut out a second! Back with that one later.

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7 thoughts on “McCalls 6395 #1

  1. I love this Lara – really lovely! And it looks like it has a beautiful versatility to it too.

    I’m thinking of conquering my fear of sewing knit fabrics. Any tips? I still only have my three spool overlocker …

    1. Thanks so much! I didn’t use the overlocker at all for this dress – it was all constructed on the machine. Start off with a fairly stable knit, like a ponte, use a needle for knit fabrics, and just go for it! And the edges don’t need finishing, as it doesn’t ravel. Honestly, this dress was so easy and fast to make in a stable double knit – you’ll never look back!

  2. Isn’t this a great dress! And you did a fantastic job on it! I’m jealous of the exposed zippers though…it’s such a great feature but just wouldn’t fly at my day job. Can’t wait to see version 2.

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